Thursday June 29, 2006
Echo of sports mania
By SOPHIE HARDACH
Men’s fashion week kicked off in sporty style on Sunday as Dolce & Gabbana sent muscled gym gods down the catwalk and Prada playfully matched casual tops in primary colours with tight plastic shorts.
Missoni offered a dandyish take on the theme with blazers and Bermuda shorts in pastel pinks, greens and blues, accessorised with boaters and golf bags – think Oscar Wilde gatecrashing sports day at an English boarding school.
The sports mania continued off the catwalk as Dolce & Gabbana handed out soccer books and the fashion pack fretted over catching key World Cup matches.
Others were less lucky. At Versace, staff were frantically organising screens to be set up in the foyer for Monday’s show, which will clash with the Italy-Australia match.
“I do believe that in our industry there’s a move towards casual clothes and performance products – shirts that absorb perspiration, underwear pieces that control the temperature of the body,” Ron Frasch, vice-president at New York luxury retailer Saks Fifth Avenue, said between the shows.
Dolce & Gabbana’s show at first looked like an underwear collection, with bronzed, sculpted models almost bursting out of skimpy white briefs and vests, wearing towels around their necks as if waiting to be called into a boxing ring.
The designers are dressing Italy’s football team, and the green, white, red national flag as well as Dolce & Gabbana’s own logo-graced hooded sweatshirts, gym bags, and baseball caps.
“I thought that Dolce & Gabbana was by far the strongest collection. There was a lot to buy from,” said Majed Al Sabah, a Kuwait retailer who also sells in Dubai and Qatar – where booming oil prices are fuelling luxury shopping.
Burberry brought in some physical aggressiveness with military-style rucksacks and foreign legion hats. But a palette of gentle, dusty pastels and sparkly details gave its slim suits and slouchy trousers overall a more relaxed feel. – Reuters