Sunday August 26, 2007
Purveyors of the ultimate bling
By KEE HUA CHEE
If ordinary jewellery is bling bling, then High Jewellery is that with a price tag that makes ordinary people blink blink.
 |
Miroir des Eauc Secret Watch. |
Few jewellers come with better provenance than Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA), founded in 1896 by Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law Salomon Arpels. In 1906, they moved to 22 Place Vendome and are still there.
Van Cleef & Arpels hit the big time when Pierre Arpels made the tiara for Princess Grace of Monaco in 1956.
In 1967, he was asked to create the crown for the coronation of Empress Farah Diba of Iran in 1967. Pierre took six months to make the 1.5kg diamond, ruby, emerald and sapphire Farah Diba Crown. Since the Shah fled in 1979, it has been locked in the vaults of the Iranian Central Bank in Tehran as part of Iran’s Crown Jewels.
Van Cleef & Arpels was the first to introduce the revolutionary “Mysterious Setting” method where gems are precisely locked into place without any prongs or claws.
They were the first jeweller to introduce a perfume aptly named “First” and then “Tsar” for men. VCA will be launching two new women’s perfumes in 2008 and 2009.
The office of Stanislas de Quercize, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels is just behind its flagship store on Place Vendome. A discreet door leads to his spacious office, which is not particularly extravagant.
 |
Mannequins replete with wings represent fairies for the Midsummer Night's Dream exhibition. |
I ask how he feels about his new position as his last posting was president of Cartier North America.
“I have only been with Van Cleef since 2005 so it is still early days for me to leave my mark in an already well run business,” he says warily. He rummages through some papers and produces a sheet triumphantly.
“However, these are the facts. At the last Christie’s High Jewellery auction, US$120mil (RM420mil) of jewels were sold, of which Van Cleef & Arpels came in first with US$35mil (RM122.5mil) while Cartier came in second at US$19 mil (RM66.5mil)! So this proves VCA has stronger resale value.”
So, where are these pricey VCA baubles made? Obviously, not in China or low labour cost countries.
“All are made in Paris! In our own workshops and not farmed out to anyone. And, unlike some, we only make jewels for ourselves and do not accept commissions from other fashion houses to manufacture on their behalf. We design, make and sell our own jewels in 56 boutiques.
“We have 3 ateliers; Marais, Cadet and here at Place Vendome which we call Le Palais or the Palace as this is the crème de la crème of jewellery.”
“We never promote or publicise our inhouse designers simply because there are lots of people involved and each creation is a team effort between designers, lapidarists, gem setters and atelier staff. We have seven designers but never give out their names, nor are they allowed to give interviews.
“The glamour and prestige come from the people who wear our jewels, from superstars to celebrities to lowkey, unknown women. We are the Haute Couture of jewellers and collaborate often with top fashion houses like Lanvin, Viktor & Rolf, Karl Lagerfeld and others to adorn their silhouette.
“I admit we are the most expensive atelier as we employ the best and most experienced artisans and creative craftsmen. These people know their value and expect to be paid accordingly!”
Dreams come true
 |
Stanislas de Quercize with 'Reflections of Eternity'. |
“Those who order custom-made pieces from us have no intention of selling them though their heirs may do whatever they want later,” says De Quercize.
“People come to see us every day to have their dreams turned into reality. We do that for them but not blindly, they must understand their dreams can come true as Van Cleef & Arpels see them. In other words, using our DNA.
“We accept their dreams in VCA style. We discuss what she wants, if she has any ideas or design in mind. We draw sketches and suggest the gems and finally we give the estimates. Money is not the problem.
“The only exception is when someone comes with an exceptional stone. Then we will create a design around the gems. We accept 0.1% of stones shown to us as we prefer to use our stockpile. It is also unlikely most people would have fantastic loose stones unless they are miners!”
As for prices, suffice to say making dreams come true does not come cheap and you should be looking at a several hundred thousand ringgit, at least.
“It is easier and faster to buy our readymade jewels which have a diverse price range. Don’t think Van Cleef & Arpels is only for the rich!” De Quercize wags a forefinger.
“Our prices start from 600 euros (RM2,820) to a 10 million euros (RM47mil) piece which we sold recently. Right now, our most expensive treasure for your instant pleasure is a blue diamond at 8 million euros (RM37.6mil).”
Being a philistine, I gripe over the prices. Concurs De Quercize, “I agree you pay a premium for a Van Cleef & Arpels as each of our jewel is the best collaboration between Nature and Man.
“We guarantee our stones and we can trace every jewel we ever made as we record all our creations. So you become part of a legend and we are the best there is. A VCA jewel is a work of art that brings unalloyed joy and this happiness remains long after the price is forgotten. So our prices are not expensive at all. In fact, I think they should be higher!”
Having said that, he only wears a simple gold wedding band. Well, each to his or her springwell of joy.
Related Story:
The man who had ‘a midsummer night’s dream’
RSS
