Saturday October 24, 2009
From Sober to drunken stupor
By NG SU-ANN
In Spain, you can easily go from Sober (a district) evening to an alcohol-soaked night of bad dancing (somebody else’s) in Madrid.
Catching catnaps in a car at petrol stations along the highways may not seem like an ideal holiday for most but we found it to be quite an adventure during our 26-hour journey from Amsterdam to the northeast of Spain.
My two friends, Bob and Chris, made this long and tiring task possible by taking turns to drive. Though I did not take the wheel, I felt fatigue sinking in as they drove through the night and into the next along some of the loneliest stretches of road in Europe.
A lovely square in Salamanca, Spain. Our first destination was a Spanish country cabin belonging to Bob’s family. Nestled in the rustic village of Santa Cruz in Sober district, this holiday home was the perfect escape from the hustle of city life. Surely there must be a limit to growth and progress?
Fortunately, this limit can be found in Sober. For me, it was a slice of paradise. The only visitors we might expect at our doorstep were wolves, wild boars and foxes. Despite finding this notion thrilling, we did not actually have any of these four-footed neighbours calling on us during our three-day stay.
One evening we baked pizzas in a wood-fire oven and watched TV game show Lingo by the fireside. I can’t remember when I have felt more relaxed and at one with nature than during this time.
Each morning, I woke up to fresh autumn air and opened windows that framed warm country scenes. It is truly a land to humble the soul and calm the mind.
For the next few days, we visited vineyards, drove past pumpkin patches and stopped at lonely chapels, all of which make up the simple but gorgeous landscape of Sober.
Giant cut-out bulls are commonplace along highways in Spain. For those who miss city life, the town of Ourense is just some 30 minutes’ drive away from Santa Cruz. Although brimming with history, Ourense is a city with a modern take on shopping, offering branded shops like Zara and Springfield and cosy ice cream parlours and warm bakeries.
However, be forewarned, most shops close during siesta time between 1.30pm and 4.30pm.
The Spanish have strict laws on opening hours, which are in keeping with its “leisure before work” attitude. By the time the clock strikes five times, the city has woken up from its midday slumber.
Our journey through Spain also took us to Salamanca — a quintessential university town bustling with human activity. It has the swagger of a big city and yet remains indelibly traditional.
The town centre is small enough to cover by foot and is a showcase of Spanish building styles, offering some of the best examples of Spanish gothic architecture.
A statue spotted in the shopping precinct of Ourense. Salamanca’s spirit can be found not only in its museums and churches but also in its streets and plazas.
Foreign students walk speedily along the roads, as café tables spill onto the footpaths. We only spent a night here, and I wished we had more time to explore the other sights on offer.
Our final stop was the Spanish capital. Madrid is a city in motion. For those who love shopping, it offers endless possibilities: glamorous department stores, designer boutiques, crowded pastry shops and bustling cafés — all within one huge pedestrian precinct.
We were lucky to find a budget hotel overlooking the main artery of Madrid — the Puerta del Sol. This busy square, which is even crowded past 10pm, has accumulated a great number of symbols over the years. They include the famous Bear and Strawberry Tree (the symbol of Madrid) and Tio Pepe signs.
In Spain, all roads lead to this square, also known as Kilometre Zero.
Another place of interest only a short walk away is Plaza Mayor, built to cater to a variety of needs, ranging from hosting theatrical performances to housing a market. It is more exquisite than Puerta del Sol. I was fortunate to have been able to watch a street display of the fiery Flamenco dance.
At another corner, I shuddered when I saw a busker wriggling in a cardboard coffin. Whether it was an attempt at entertaining or frightening the public, I was not amused.
Opting for a night of pub hopping, we passed by Gran Via which is one of the city’s busiest streets. This thriving commercial area has several theatres that have earned the street the tag “Spanish Broadway”.
A group dressed in Spanish costumes walking in the main square of Madrid. — NG SU-ANN At one of the pubs, we were amused by someone who was obviously more drunk than us. Before he came, we were challenging each other to dance on stage. However, our senses were intact enough not to do anything, er, unwise.
Thus, when the stranger turned up and started chatting to us, one of my cheeky friends coaxed him to show his moves on stage. He obliged.
I doubt he could dance even when sober but he was certainly more entertaining than the busker in the coffin.
From the simple life in Sober to the faster-paced Salamanca, to crowd-thronged Madrid, I felt our journey gaining momentum from point to point. It may have been a long tedious journey into the heart of Spain but it is one which I will always reflect on with a smile.
Travel tips
TRAVEL DOCUMENTATION
Malaysians only need a passport which allows them to stay for up to 90 days.
WATER Safe to drink from the tap.
OPENING HOURS Business hours are usually from 9.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm (Monday to Saturday), however, big shopping malls are open from 10am- 9pm/10pm.
ELECTRICITY SUPPLY AC 220 Volts, 50 Hertz. Sockets meet European regulations and use the round pin system.
MORE INFO www.spain.info
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