Saturday October 24, 2009

Porto, in a day

By NG SU-ANN

Porto is a city that retains the charms of its quaint, nostalgic past.

During my seven-day road trip covering Spain and Portugal, we stopped at Porto, Portugal’s second biggest city after Lisbon. This Unesco World Heritage Site was in the news when it hosted the opening game of Euro 2004 and when it was decreed the European Capital of Culture in 2001.

Porto simply invites discovery because despite having undergone dynamic developments, it has managed to preserve all the charms of its bygone past.

A real-life view of Porto.

When I spotted trams running up and down the rolling roads in the city centre, I was reminded of San Francisco. Introduced in 1895, the trams replaced the Americanos (donkey-pulled carts on tracks). Today, they provide a charming way of viewing the city’s landmarks as they rock passengers in rhythm to their gentle vibration.

As one goes around the urban network, one can feast one’s eyes on the Porto’s prim little squares and medieval alleys. There are also the churches, which are intriguingly covered with glazed tiles painted in various themes.

The most popular is the 12th century Se Cathedral, which sits on a mound that offers visitors some of the best views of the city. My two friends, who led the road trip, admired its ornate interior as they rested inside while I put my camera to good use outside.

I noticed how balconies and windows hung with numerous clothes lines were a common scene here.

You can also explore the city centre in a two-carriage train for less than €10 (RM51) each. There are a few stops for passengers to hop on or hop off along the route. However, the train was full when we wanted to buy our tickets, so we decided instead to take a stroll.

Igreja Sto Ildefonso

It led us to the Ponte de D. Luis I (ponte means “bridge”). Venturing from the excellent viewing spot of Se Cathedral to this scenic bridge overlooking the delightful Rio Douro (rio is “river”), I felt like a spoilt tourist. The dilapidated houses fronting the river, instead of coming across as an eyesore, seemed to add appeal and character to the area. Some of them even had overgrown shrubs and vines covering their walls and roofs.

Our last stop was Castelo de Sao Joao da Foz along the coast facing the Atlantic. We had to drive there. All the parking bays had been taken up, so one of my friends had to wait in the car while two of us visited the castle. Admission was free. However, there was little to explore as most areas of the building were off-limits to the public.

Also, there was nobody to provide us with any information about the place.

The only insight into its origin was a small replica of the castle with its name and the years “1570-1647” written on a sign beside it.

Searching for information in the Internet, I learned that the castle was built during the period of Spanish rule to protect the coast and for access to the River Douro. It was later used, during the Siege of Porto (1832-33), for unloading and storage purposes.

Well, at least, I now know that there is no fairytale story behind it.