Saturday November 7, 2009
What’s your beef?
By ALICE CHING
Kannichikan Yakiniku’s Japanese-styled Korean barbecue offers a wide selection of imported Wagyu cuts and uncommon “spare parts”.
Instead of throwing a shrimp on the barbie, how about slices of delectable Kuroge Wagyu and beefy spare parts like bowel, intestine, tongue, omasum (the cow’s third stomach) and pillar tripe?
If you relish the idea of sinking your teeth into these bizarre bits, then a visit to Kannichikan Yakiniku, a restaurant run by Leow Yew Chan and wife Chong Chew Sim, is in order.
Taking a cut: There are different cuts of meat available thanks to the owner’s butchery skills. Having studied and worked in Japan for six years, the Leows because enamoured with all things Japanese.
“We used to work in a Japanese-styled Korean barbecue restaurant, so that ignited our passion for yakiniku (Japanese-styled grilled meat),” says Leow. Such was the couple’s interest that it spurred them to open their first Kannichikan Yakiniku outlet in Penang in August 2000.
“It was tough-going initially as local diners couldn’t grasp our Japanese-styled Korean barbecue concept,” says Leow. Luckily, many Japanese expatriates did, and they soon thronged Kannichikan Yakiniku, or KNK as it is popularly known.
The Leows opened a second outlet in Sri Hartamas in June 2005 to equally enthusiastic response from the Japanese expats there. Now they have opened their third outlet.
“We decided on this colonial-styled bungalow in response to our corporate clientele’s requests for better private dining facilities,” says Chong.
Leow explains that KNK’s yakiniku differs from the typical Korean barbecue as the outlet specialises in serving different cuts of meat, from chilled Australian Wagyu to the superior and pricier Kuroge Wagyu from Japan. The wide variety available is due to Leow’s butchery skill.
“Diners should start with some light appetisers, such as Gyu Tataki (slices of rare roast beef, RM23) and Kimuchi Moriawase (mixed Korean-styled pickles, RM6) while waiting for their choice of prime cuts to cook on the barbecue,” advises Leow.
All the grilling is done over a charcoal brazier filled with highly compressed charcoal briquettes imported from Japan.
“This charcoal is critical to our operations. It can sustain high heat for more than an hour and yet produces minimal sparks and little ash. It also imbues the grilled meat with a ‘clean’ smoky aroma and flavour minus any residual kerosene overtone,” Leow explains.
“Don’t turn or poke at the meat too often during grilling or the juices will drip into the fire causing it to flare and scorch the meat,” chips in Chong. “Once placed onto the grill netting, the meat won’t stick as we’ve ensured the brazier is heated up to the right temperature when it’s brought to your table. Should it cool down before your meal is finished, we’ll change it for you.”
At KNK, the meat is not marinated but lightly seasoned with salt and pepper or a special miso sauce. Discerning steak lovers will love their selection of premium cuts, like the Kuroge Wagyu Rosu (sliced Japanese Wagyu ribeye, RM97), Zyo Honetsuki Karubi (prime bone-in short rib, RM28) and Nama Ramu (high-grade chilled Australian lamb rack, RM23).
Leow recommends sampling the subtle-flavoured dishes first before progressing to stronger tasting ones.
“This way you’d appreciate the gradual build-up of different nuances. For cuts seasoned with salt and pepper, some freshly squeezed lemon juice will enhance the meat’s inherent sweetness. Items basted with our special sauce can be eaten on their own or with our house dip made from apple and lemon juices with Japanese mirin (cooking rice wine) and sesame seeds,” he says.
The richly marbled, melt-in-the-mouth slices of Kuroge Wagyu go best with Wafu Tare (Japanese-style BBQ Sauce, RM5), a mild tangy-briny sauce served with shredded daikon (radish) and leek.
Though not for the faint-hearted, their more exotic options like Nama-Tan (premium beef tongue, RM38) and Zyo-Tetchan (prime beef bowels, RM28) are very popular with KNK regulars. The vein-streaked Suji Yaki (muscle, RM18) tastes similar to long yuk korn (Chinese barbecued meat slices). Their chewier texture is guaranteed to give your jaw a good workout.
You can also opt for Chicken Thigh (RM18) or Seafood (RM18-RM23) if you would rather not have beef. (Such options are practically unheard of in Japan.) In addition, you can also order Karubi Ramen (spicy beef noodles soup RM18), Chige Udon (spicy miso soup with udon noodles, RM20) and Ishiyaki Bibinba (stone bowl Korean mixed vegetable rice RM20).
Budget-conscious diners may want to check out their Yakiniku Set Lunches (RM28-RM35 per person) and KNK Set (RM118 per couple).
The restaurant’s spartan but homely setting allows for ample privacy for corporate and personal entertainment. Helmed by an experienced team who has worked with the Leows for the past three years, the restaurant provides its patrons affable and unobtrusive service.
KANNICHIKAN YAKINIKU (pork-free)
No 51 Jalan Damai
Ampang Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 2163 8213
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