Saturday November 7, 2009
Sublime Bali
By SHARIFAH INTAN
Bali is everybody’s favourite holiday destination, and the resorts of Alila Ubud and Alila Manggis show why it will continue to be so.
We settled back in our chairs with a cup of tea, enjoying the almost perfect silence and the views of the densely forested valley from our hilltop perch in Bali’s central foothills.
From the open-air restaurant, the dramatic infinity-edge swimming pool below us appeared to float above the plunging valley and meandering Ayung river, adding to the surreal atmosphere.
My daughter and I had arrived at the rustic Alila Ubud resort, on the outskirts of Ubud, Bali’s cultural, artistic and geographical heart. It is very tranquil here, surrounded by misty forests, low mountains and iridescent green rice terraces.
You enter an environment where outside distractions vanish.
You are here to de-stress, we were told. And it started as soon as we entered our room and breathed in the soothing lavender aroma wafting from a burner.
The gorgeous infinity pool in Alila Ubud, Bali. Our room was simply furnished and came with a garden terrace and a backyard with an alfresco shower. And of course, there was no television in the room, only an iPod dock.
Alila’s 56 rooms are housed in blocks designed to resemble a Balinese village with pavilions, ponds and gardens. The reception, restaurant and spa are open to the elements. The resort, designed by Australian architect Kerry Hill, combines contemporary and traditional Balinese architecture, using natural materials such as stone and wood which blend harmoniously into the surroundings.
The name Alila comes from Sanskrit meaning “surprise” which, according to the brochure, “refers to the refreshing qualities of the property and the reaction of guests upon arrival”. No one can argue with this logic.
Alila is great for honeymooners, who will find the secluded rooms perfect for romantic moments. However, my daughter and I found it a little too quiet. We decided some diversion and entertainment were in order and so took the complimentary shuttle to explore Ubud, famed for its art galleries and museums, just 10 minutes away.
The many shops offer everything your home needs, and even if yours is already fully decorated, there is always room for one more painting or a trio of colourful cushions. The pace is slow, unlike the franticness of Kuta.
Everywhere you go, there’s the sound of tinkling gongs. We spent a leisurely afternoon browsing the shops, and when night fell, we tucked into a delightful Balinese meal. We reckoned no stay in Ubud was complete without a classical dance show, so we decided to catch a traditional Lenggong dance at the magnificent Water Palace whose lily pond and carved statues served as a dramatic backdrop.
The next morning, we were up bright and early for a lavish breakfast inside a tent specially set up for us in the sculpture garden. Since we were the only ones there, we felt like royalty, having the waiter all to ourselves.
Breakfast was a laid-back affair, accompanied by the chirping of cicadas and twittering of birds. This state of bliss was reinforced by a foot bath and massage which lulled us into a relaxed frame of mind for our transfer to Alila Ubud’s sister hotel, Alila Manggis, 40km away on the coast near the village of Candidasa.
A pair of stone crocodiles keep watch over the pool at Alila Manggis which is sited in a lovely coconut grove. Alila Ubud also arranges tours to the mountain village of Kintamani, the spectacular rice terraces at Tegalalang, the natural springs at Tampaksiring and the village of Petulu, home to a flock of white egrets.
We contemplated a side trip but time was not on our side. Perhaps on our next visit.
The drive to Alila Manggis took us past rolling hills in many shades of green, coffee farms and small villages. En route, we stopped at Kerta Gosa, the Hall of Justice, located in the centre of the Klungkung Regency and built in 1710 by Dewa Agung the King of Klungkung. Like the other tourists there, we gaped in awe at the elaborate artwork on the ornamented ceiling portraying the eternal fight of good against evil.
Lunch was at the delightful Patal Kikian lodge owned by the Sideman royal family. (Sideman Valley is located in the Karangasem Regency, east Bali.) And no, the family was not in residence. However, we did learn that former Indonesian president Megawati Sukarnoputri is a regular guest.
The lodge is a hilltop homestay with five rooms for paying guests and offers sweeping views. It’s quite a climb up the steep steps to the top of the lodge but our efforts were rewarded with a delicious spread and picturesque scenery.
Bright and breezy
While Alila Ubud is serene and secluded, Manggis is stylish with a sunny touch. Both are perfect for chilling out. The 53 rooms and two corner suites of Alila Manggis are housed in traditional two-storey thatched Balinese pavillions reminiscent of the village wantilan or meeting hall.
Our room had a balcony with a day bed facing the swimming pool and sea, and tastefully decorated in wood. Lazing our life away seemed just so attractive but we only had one night left in Bali and wanted to squeeze in some sightseeing.
This area is renowned for its spectacular beauty and for being the gateway to the dive islands of the East Coast and great water palaces of east Bali, so there are options galore.
The fitter tourists can summon local hotel guides for a two- to six-hour trek to Gumang Hill for stunning views of verdant rice terraces and the world-famous Gunung Agung or “Paramount Mountain”, considered the most sacred in Bali.
Few places offer better sunrises or sunsets than Gunung Agung but getting to the top is no piece of cake. It involves a trek off the beaten track through rice terraces and farms to the Bali Aga village of Tenganan. Then it’s another four-hour climb to reach the top of Mt Agung where you are guaranteed to feel like the king of the world.
Bali Aga, a living museum 3km away, is famous for the geringsing (double ikat), a cloth woven by the women. After a small donation, you enter this 500m long by 250m wide village surrounded by stone-paved walls that run the length of the village. Strolling here is like a walk back into time as the people here still practise ancient ceremonies and rites.
Inter-marriage is compulsory unless they want to be expelled from the village. Apart from the fruits of their looms, the women are skilled in the art of making baskets and Lontar leaf books or calendars. It is hard to leave without some textiles in your woven bag.
Back at the resort, a massage was the perfect antidote to our hectic day of sightseeing. Feeling pampered, exfoliated and rejuvenated, I was primed for dinner at the award-winning Seasalt restaurant, inspired by a neighbouring organic salt farm.
The restaurant uses organic vegetables taken from its garden and also runs cooking classes. Our last night on this magical isle was spent dining on delicious grilled seafood in a traditional pavilion while being serenaded by a chorus of frogs having a party in the lotus pond. Sublime.
A trip to Bali can be hectic or a retreat. Or both.
o For more information, visit www.alilahotels.com
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