Sunday November 8, 2009
Empire of the sun
Stories and photos by CHRISTINA CHIN
Qatar is a land of contrasts, as a visit to two of its popular attractions proves.
THERE are two things you must do if you are ever in Qatar – visit the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA) in Doha and go on a desert safari.
The former, with its fascinating collection of rainbow-hued antiques, offers a stark contrast to the golden-brown sea of sand that is the spectacular Khor al Adaid, an area of rolling sand dunes surrounding an inlet along the Persian Gulf.
The Museum of Islamic Art has angular volumes which rise around a high-domed atrium. Both are very different experiences but are equally priceless when it comes to discovering the true heart and soul of this country.
An architectural wonder
The MIA, which will celebrate its first anniversary on December 1, is a masterpiece in every sense of the word.
Before even getting to its exhibits, you will be blown away by Pritzker Prize-winning architect I.M. Pei’s (yes, the architectural genius behind the Louvre in Paris) awe-inspiring building. Measuring a staggering 114, 830sq m, the MIA rises majestically from the crystal blue Doha Bay like a modern-day pyramid castle with an angled facade.
Pei had embarked on a world tour to discover and understand the diversity of Islamic architecture in order to construct a museum that could “come alive” with the rising sun as the shadows of this geometric wonder dance on its palm-lined surroundings.
Inspired mainly by the 13th-century sabil (ablutions fountain) of the Mosque of Ahmad Ibn Tulun in Cairo, Egypt, his design is a Cubist expression of geometric progression that reflects the journey and influence of Islamic art.
The view of ‘New Doha’ from the Museum of Islamic Art. Built of the finest materials (think Magny and Chamesson limestone from France, Jet Mist granite from the United States and stainless steel from Germany), the five-storey high domed atrium and a two-storey education wing are connected by a central courtyard.
The50m-high dome is concealed from the outside by the walls of a central tower but once inside, you are dwarfed by a glass curtain wall that reaches up to the dome. And the view it offers is a breathtaking panorama of the Gulf and West Bay area.
The collection
The MIA allows visitors to discover the essence of Islamic culture, and it is really a time portal disguised as a museum. It’s amazing how one can travel over 11,250km from Spain to India and go back more than 1,300 years in time here.
Featuring a permanent display of more than 800 works including manuscripts, ceramics, metal, glass, ivory, textiles, wood and precious stones from Spain, North Africa, Egypt, Syria, Iraq, Turkey, Iran, India and Central Asia, the museum provides a glimpse into one of the world’s richest and most colourful civilisations.
The main segments include displays that showcase calligraphy, figure in art, pattern and science in art. Visitors will be amazed by the beautiful fluid lines of Arabic calligraphy and vibrant mosaic tile panels that celebrate the union of Chinese and Islamic motifs. They will be enthralled by painted ceramics and jewellery, including that of Shah Jahan (the bereaved widower who built the Taj Mahal). His jade pendant, believed to be able to cure a broken heart, is on display here.
If you are visiting the country before February, the “Beyond Boundaries: Islamic Art Across Cultures” exhibition is a must-see.
One hot ride
“Dune bashing” is not for the faint of heart. This basically involves a group of brave, thrill-seeking tourists exploring the desert sand dunes, southeast of the Qatar peninsula, on a four-wheel drive.
During the two-hour ride across the desert, you’re at the mercy of the driver as he plunges down 60m-high dunes and navigates past sandy terrain.
These sand dunes are probably Mother Nature’s idea of a roller coaster ride, so you’d better be ready for an experience of a lifetime!
Though the vehicles are comfortable and the drivers experienced, when perched precariously on a dune, you will start to wonder why no one asked you to sign any disclaimers before you set out.
Survive the ride and you’ll be treated to a sight to behold – the Inland Sea. Finding a vast body of water right next to a dry desert gives new meaning to “stark contrast”.
Remember to bring your swimming costume or a change of clothing so that you won’t miss out on taking a refreshing dip in the sea. The Saudi Arabian border is also visible from here.
After you’re done with water frolicking, less than an hour away will be where you dine, Bedouin-style.
Delicious as it is, try not to be distracted by the traditional barbecue spread because you’ll then miss out on one of the most spectacular sunsets in the world.
The desert is transformed into a “theatre” as night falls, and the stars twinkle brightly as though they are performing to the Arabian music playing from the tents.
While I did not spend the night in the desert, anyone planning a trip to Qatar should do so, because I’m sure nothing beats the feeling of falling asleep under a blanket of stars.
For a day trip, the cost is about RM400 and staying overnight in one of the tents will set you back RM550. Well worth it, I say!
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