Thursday April 16, 2009
Inspired by Coco
By PATSY KAM
The new creative director of Chanel shares his thoughts on his recent work.
THE new face of Chanel is not some supermodel but a man who dictates the colours to paint on her face. Belgian Peter Philips came on board the House of Chanel in 2008 as the new global creative director of Chanel make-up, a position described by Vogue magazine as the “most coveted job in cosmetics”.
Apart from inheriting a legacy of luxurious packaging and technical innovation, Philips also has a reputation for being one of fashion’s best avant-garde talents. After studying graphic design in his native Belgium, he took up a fashion design course at the Antwerp Académie des Beaux Arts.
The look that Peter Philips created to go with Karl Lagerfeld’s clothes for the Paris Fashion Week. From fashion editorial and advertising campaigns to runway shows, Philips’ creativity has won him global recognition. His list of photographic collaborators include major brands and avant-garde designers.
“Peter continues the exceptional work done by Dominique Moncourtois and Heidi Morawetz over the past 30 years. He has displayed the ability to capture the very essence and spirit of the brand. His exceptional creativity, sense of perfection and attention have contributed to his worldwide recognition today,” said Maureen Chiquet, Chanel’s CEO.
“His thoroughly modern approach will play a key role in his new position and his focus will be on style. He will draw his inspiration from the timeless images of Chanel while always looking towards the future.”
Philips shares his thoughts on Chanel and his most recent work, the make-up for the brand’s Spring Summer collection during the Paris Fashion Week last January.
Peter Philips: ‘Make-up can help a woman to hide what she doesn’t like about herself and, at the same time, enhance her best features.’ What image did you have of Mademoiselle Chanel before joining the House of Chanel?
I had the image of a rebellious, independent, liberated and avant-garde woman.
Has this image changed?
The image was confirmed. When I discovered the rue Cambon apartment, it was an amazing source of inspiration. I really wanted to physically grasp the spirit of Mademoiselle Chanel. Her life was so rich, so incredible! When you work in the cosmetic or fashion world, and especially for a fashion house like Chanel, it’s important to delve into the past in order to work on the future.
What attracted you to Chanel?
The fact that Chanel can be considered as a world of its own is incredible! It’s a unique and prestigious fashion house with a strong identity based on a real history. Yet, it remains very modern.
What are you passionate about?
My work! I’ve only taken four or five weeks of vacation in the last 12 years!
What is your most frequent source of inspiration?
Life. Everything can be a source of inspiration – the beauty of models, the talent of a photographer, stylism, colours. Or it can be a book, a film. New York is also great inspiration. When I’m there, I look at people in the street. And fashion, of course, which is a big source of inspiration for me.
How would you define your style?
A blend of tradition and innovation. It’s like a personal recipe and I think that’s why it appeals to people.
Which make-up product (do you think) is indispensable to women?
Mascara.
Which product do you dream of coming up with?
The perfect foundation.
What role does colour play in your creation?
I can’t imagine my life without colours! If I weren’t a make-up artist, I might have opened a flower shop.
How do you anticipate make-up trends?
I follow my heart and my instinct.
Do you adapt your make-up to specific cultural features? For example, the difference between an American woman and a European woman?
Women throughout the world have very different tastes. Americans, for example, wear a lot more foundation than Europeans. As for lipstick, Americans like neutral tones, Italians and Germans prefer orange tones, Japanese women opt for girly, sparkling and pink shades, and French women prefer red.
What mistake should women avoid when applying make-up?
Too much or not enough make-up. For me, make-up should enhance the strong points of a face. It’s not camouflage.
Which women inspire you?
I’m inspired by the iconic aspects of celebrities that inspire me and mature women such as Gabrielle Chanel, Sophia Loren, whom I’ve already applied make-up on before, or the beauty of Claudia Schiffer.
Does your background make you different from other make-up artists?
The training gave me a more global perspective of the fashion trades. I come from the fashion world and it feeds my creativity. It’s a strength. Make-up is an essential part of fashion. This is why I want to maintain this link by pursuing my work with designers for fashion shows or with photographers for fashion shoots.
How did your passion for make-up begin?
My passion dates back to when I was young, when I was fascinated watching my friends transform themselves as they applied mascara and eye shadow. These young girls changed into attractive, confident and strong women. I was intrigued by this.
What do you like about make-up?
Many things. Make-up can help a woman to hide what she doesn’t like about herself and, at the same time, enhance her best features. You can do almost anything with make-up, and if you aren’t satisfied with the result, you can simply remove it and try something else.”
How much time goes by between the initial sketch of a collection or idea and its release in the market? What season are you working on right now?
“We work about two years in advance. Right now, we’re working on the Autumn Winter and Christmas 2010 collections. And we’re already starting to talk about the products to be launched in 2011.
How do you interpret the fashion created by Karl Lagerfeld? Do you work together beforehand (before the show)?
It varies according to each fashion show. For the last haute couture show, Karl told us about the theme one month ahead of time. For the make-up of haute couture Spring Summer 2009 in Paris, Karl wanted the nails to be white. He spoke to me about the décor which would be composed of white paper.
When I saw the delicacy of the clothing that he had created, and the fragility of the paper flower headdresses created by Kamo, the make-up, as it appeared to me, had to be as pure as possible – pure chic, soft and harmonious.
I used very pale shades, avoiding an over-exposure of white as the nails were already intensely white. The only hints of colour are those subtly applied to the cheeks and mouth.
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