Saturday April 4, 2009

Segovia: a smorgasbord of history

Stories by MARIA DANIEL

Segovia in Spain is not just a World Heritage City, it’s also famous for its wine, whisky and food.

Spain has been occupied by the Ancient Romans, the Visigoths and the Moors. All of the invaders were present long enough to build forts, churches and other structures. Because of this, Spain is the country with the second-largest number of Unesco World Heritage Sites (Italy has more!) and the largest number of World Heritage Cities.

Segovia, 100km north of Madrid, is interesting because it has a little bit of everything. This smorgasbord of history has a Roman aqueduct and walls, as well as a 1,000-year-old Arabic fort, medieval churches and other riches.

The Castillo de Coca

Icons of Segovia

The aqueduct is the pride of the province. About 2,000 years old, this huge double arch of stone channels once carried water from nearby mountains straight to the people in the city.

The aqueduct is made of 20,400 granite blocks, artfully piled up without the benefit of mortar or clamps. It’s not just that it’s 28m tall — the amazing thing is that the whole lot stays up!

The nearby Alcázar that towers over the city was originally the site of a Roman fort. Perched on tall rocks that overlook the valley, this eyrie no doubt gave the invaders a feeling of security when battling wily Hispanic guerrillas.

Today, no trace of the original building remains. But the spot is now occupied by an Arabic fort built during the time the Moors ruled over much of Spain. After the Spanish kings threw out the Moors, the fort was turned into a royal palace. The beauty of the countryside and Segovia’s position as trading hub, made the Alcázar a favourite of Spanish kings. Many Spanish kings and queens were crowned in the local square.

Segovia’s iconic Roman aqueduct

Because the Alcázar is ancient and has been partially destroyed in dozens of battles, one of the fun things is trying to guess what is original and what is restored.

One of the prime attractions inside is the frieze in the Hall of Kings. This features all the Spanish rulers from Pelagius of Asturias who ruled this region around 718AD, to Juana la Loca (Joanna the Crazy), the medieval queen who lived with the embalmed body of her husband Philip the Handsome.

Considering many of Spain’s kings and queens lived lives as exciting as soap opera stars, this frieze can be fascinating if you have a good guide or Internet access on your mobile.

Other touristy sights in town include the Segovia cathedral, a huge Gothic church built 500 years ago, the church of Vera Cruz that was a hot spot during the times of the Crusades, and the Casa de los Picos, a nobleman’s house covered in a rather odd bumpy stone motif.

If you have a car, nearby must-sees are the Royal Palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso, a sumptuous palace built in baroque style with French gardens filled with 26 fountains, and the Castillo de Coca, a 15th century castle complete with moat and defensible turrets on the outside, and sumptuous luxury on the inside.

Meson Duque is famous for its roast pork

Whisky, food and fun

The other good thing about Segovia is that it is a working city. Only about half of the town depends on tourism for their income. While other tourism towns shut down at 6pm, Segovia has a thriving nightlife and lots of non-touristy shops. This means there is plenty to keep friends occupied while you lose yourself in place and time.

Boozehounds will be delighted to know that as well as the usual array of local vino, Segovia is also the home of DYC whisky, Spain’s answer to Scotch. Enthusiasts can sign up for a tour or try it out in local pubs.

Nature lovers should visit the Duratón River Nature Reserve where Griffon’s vultures, Egyptian eagles, golden eagles and other birds of prey soar over the limestone gorges.

And then there’s the food! Segovian dishes focus on classic Spanish rustic delights. Roast suckling pig with crispy skin, roast lamb that falls apart at the touch of a fork, bean stews, home-made sausages and salads laced with local olives are favourites.

Although it’s difficult to have a bad meal in Segovia, Meson Candido that sits right next to the aqueduct and Restaurante Jose Maria and Meson Duque that lie in the road next to it are famous throughout Spain for their exquisite cuisine. To get a table, you’ve got to book in advance.

Whether you’re interested in history or just want to have some good food, Segovia is worth a visit.