Saturday May 2, 2009
I dream of Dubai
Dubai fulfils your thirst for luxury, adventure, entertainment, nature, culture...
There is magic in Dubai, no doubt about it. Despite my initial impression of it as just another modern skyscraper city, I had a change of heart on my way to the desert next day.
And by the end of my three-day trip, I had concluded that Dubai was not just an architect’s dream city or a shoppers’ haven, but also a bewitching place with its mesmerising sand dunes, enticing sunsets and mysterious Arabian Oryx (a rare species of antelope).
Dubai, the second largest of the seven emirates that makes up the United Arab Emirates (UAE), spans some 3,885sq km and is surrounded by mountains and deserts. The city of Dubai is divided into Deira district to the north and Bur Dubai in the south. Dubai Creek, a natural sea-water inlet from the Gulf, cuts through the city, stretching some 10km.
A look into Old Dubai. One of the most notable things about the city is the hospitality of the people — the services rendered here are world-class, and for us, it all started the minute we climbed aboard Emirates Airline flight EK343 from KLIA.
It was a cold and windy morning when we landed at the Dubai International Airport. Since we travelled business class, we were all treated like pampered sheikhs. The seats were plush and service was impeccable! At the airport, a BMW Seven Series whisked us to the five-star Address Hotel and Resorts in Downtown Burj Dubai. This was not a bad way to travel.
And yes, we were pleased to find the hotel was next door to the Dubai Mall and only a stone’s throw away from the iconic Burj Dubai (Dubai Tower), the tallest man-made structure in the world.
Our first introduction to the city was at Bastakiya District, also known as Old Dubai. You’ll find most of the city’s traditional structures here.
Our guide, Muhammad Labeeb, took us to buildings that used to be homes to pearl merchants. Today, the area has been turned into a place for restaurants and museums.
We visited Dubai Museum and learned how the city grew from a poor village into the glittering metropolis that is it today. Then we hopped on an abra (water taxi) to view the city via the creek, taking in such attractions as the spice bazaars, heritage village and Jumerirah Mosque.
We stopped at the souk (market), and the first shop we dropped in on was a spice shop. Here, we bought saffron, cashew and almonds. The gold market was our next stop.
“Over here you can buy gold like vegetables, but you must bargain,’’ Muhammad advised.
Dubai’s gold souk attracts merchants from all over the world, and the place is always bustling with activity all day long. You can get dazzling gold and sparkling diamond pieces of the latest designs here. Alas, we had not the funds to purchase gold as if it were vegetables.
Desert safari
One of my lifelong dreams was to spend a night in the desert, riding a camel, enjoying wine or coffee at a campfire and watching the sun go down. Well, Dubai was my chance to make this dream come true!
The iconic Burj Dubai (Dubai Tower). A 4WD picked us up at the hotel for our excursion into the desert. It’s an adventure in itself to explore the sand dunes . . . but preferably with an experienced driver, like Hani.
Our driver explained that it was imperative that the tyre pressure be reduced to gain the vehicle more traction. This increased the footprint of the tyres and reduced the downward pressure of the vehicle on the sand, preventing it from becoming stuck.
If you’re going to try this, here’s some valuable advice: buckle up! And if you have a weak tummy, it’s best to stop now and again to get some fresh air. We stopped a few times ourselves — but to take photographs and enjoy a glass of date wine as we watched the sun go down.
The highlight of our desert safari was the dune dinner we enjoyed in a Bedouin-like setting. Prior to that, I got to enjoy a short camel ride around the campsite. Dinner was a BBQ buffet with Arabian coffee to finish. We had our hands painted with henna, indulged in shisha smoking and enjoyed the performance of a belly dancer.
This was a great way to cap a day that had, among other things, taken us to the Dubai Marina, a man-made marina and exclusive waterfront development, as well as the Atlantis, the flagship resort on the Palm Jumeirah, a palm tree-shaped, artificial island reclaimed from the sea.
The Atlantis, which opened its doors last September, is a 46ha site that boasts Aquaventure, a water playground with theme park rides and over 18 million litres of water; the Ambassador Lagoon, an 11 million-litre marine habitat and underwater exhibit; Dolphin Bay, a dolphin conservation centre, and much more.
Of course, no visit to Dubai is complete without stopping at the iconic Burj Al Arab, touted as the World’s Most Luxurious Hotel. Designed in the shape of a billowing Arabian dhow sail, the Burj Al Arab is a tribute to the nation’s seafaring heritage.
Inside this opulent structure, the play of colours from the different floors gives the place a fantasy feel. We were lucky to be able to see a Royal Suite with its palatial surroundings, private cinema, four-poster rotating canopy bed and bathrooms with 24-carat gold faucets and toilets.
It was overwhelming.
The proud dune dweller, the Arabian Oryx. Heaven on earth
On day three, I awoke to birdsong in the background. As my eyes adjusted to the morning light streaming into the room, I saw it — that proudest of all dune dwellers — the Arabian oryx.
The spear-horned antelope gazed back at me, barely 100m away.
It took a while to remember that I was actually at the Al Maha Desert Resort and Spa, one of the most amazing places on earth . . . OK, OK, this is just a fantasy.
But I did visit the resort, and I did manage to catch a glimpse of the proud oryx, even if it was a whole lot further away than 100m.
The 225sq km resort near the Hajar Mountains is the conservation showcase of Emirates Hotels and Resorts. It does double duty as a luxurious resort in the Bedouin style and a major nature reserve.
“Al Maha is Arabic for the Arabian oryx, which is endemic to the oasis,’’ explained Pani Wanigasekera, Al Maha’s guest relations officer. “At times, you can find them grazing nearby.”
We caught a glimpse of a few while on the way to the resort. The resort’s selling point, apart from the location, is its exclusivity.
“We do not accept day visitors,’’ Pani stressed, adding that preserving guests’ privacy is important.
I left Al Maha with a heavy heart and a promise to return one day and experience its magic. But my low spirits rose quickly when it became clear that we had time to spend our last few hours in Dubai shopping!
I managed to divide my time between the Dubai Outlet Mall, the Emirates Mall and the Dubai Mall and that put a dent in my bank account.
I spent my last hour in Dubai at the Emirates Lounge. There was no time to grab breakfast at the hotel, so as soon as I found a nice seat in a corner, I headed to the well-stocked buffet and picked up toast, muffins and fresh fruit. The coffee bar in the corner provided all the caffeine needed as I awaited the call to board.
Minutes before take-off, we were served champagne in a crystal flute. I could not resist asking the flight attendant to take a snapshot of me enjoying the bubbly. As I look at the pictures again exactly one month later, I’m reminded of my three perfect days in Dubai.
It was a memorable trip.
The writer’s visit to Dubai was sponsored by Emirates Airline. Since December 2008, Emirates has increased its non-stop Kuala Lumpur-Dubai flights from nine to 12 times a week. For more information, call the Emirates Malaysia office at (03) 2058 5888 or visit www.emirates.com
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