Thursday August 6, 2009
The original American casual style
By PATSY KAM
Gap sticks to its tried and tested formula of cool and understated fare this fall.
Denin jeans this season come in five updated fits for women. HE’S the home boy from California made good, the poster boy for casual American living. And after his second year at Gap, designer Patrick Robinson proves that he’s as comfortable in his role as executive vice-president of design as someone slipping on a favourite pair of well-worn shoes.
These are no ordinary shoes, mind you.
After years of dipping sales along with a fading image, sceptics have gone as far as to call the brand “fashion’s equivalent of Merlin’s stone”. Robinson, whose popularity with industry insiders and his finesse with casual American sportswear precede him, was roped in to reinvent Gap, America’s largest speciality apparel chain and most iconic fashion brand.
With expectations riding high on him being the next Tom Ford of Gap, he certainly had big shoes to fill.
As always, there are the after-show jitters. Right after international journalists were given a sneak preview of the Fall/Holiday 2009 collection in London last March, Robinson nervously asked the press the next day: “How was it, how was it? People always say nice things during the show but you wonder if they really liked your stuff.”
He’s kidding, of course, as the crowd lapped up every bit of the collection – hooded jackets, skinny jeans, boots and all.
The show was held in the basement of an art gallery. Glaring bright spotlights turned up the heat on pretty models who posed as live mannequins on a raised platform. Feted with wine, champagne and finger foods, guests were supposed to ogle at the pretty men and women on parade, and enjoy the clothes.
Anytime, anywhere: ‘I’m not a big fan of high fashion. My clothes are in the stores, seen in airports and everywhere else,’ says Patrick Robinson. “I was inspired by the men in Asia, especially in Japan. For the women’s range, I looked to Europe. I’m inspired by ordinary people in the street, not by celebrities,” he said during the short 15-minute breakfast interview.
There were three collections on show, for the Japanese, American and European markets.
“It’s best of three places. Personally, I liked the ombre sweater. I love the boots – Pierre Hardy designed some amazing shoes for us, which are definitely the editors’ favourite at the moment! My favourite is a high heeled suede ankle boot in dark grey and beige.”
Robinson explained that working with Hardy was more like a collaboration – they exchanged phone calls constantly but never really met in any face-to-face discussion. He explained his design ideas to Hardy, who came up with the complementary shoes. Robinson only saw the shoes for the first time during the show!
“Also, a new shape for trousers called the Slender Chino, which is super flattering. Denim is huge for us for Fall and I love the idea of it being worn in a slightly dressier, more chic way – with a silk T-shirt or a little denim blazer. I also love the slouchier boyfriend silhouette for jeans,” he added.
“The theme is classic American culture. I wanted something iconic – optimistic and would portray a healthy lifestyle – something you would wear walking to the park. All in good taste, of course.”
I felt sorry for the youthful-looking 42-year-old designer as he had to repeat his answers to four different groups of journalists, who had to look professional while stuffing their faces with croissants and taking down notes at the same time.
Layering is the key for Gap designs. But then, Robinson was truly patient, amicable and gracious, and even extended an invitation to the press to visit him in New York. Likewise, Malaysian journalists promised him a trip down foodie lane to remember if he ever came to our side of the globe.
It was interesting morning banter, as Robinson shared how he has fun trying to read his Asian team (in Japan as they were not so direct in their approach). He also talked about his current passion, a boat that he’s been working on at home in upstate New York, an ongoing project that’s kept him occupied for the last six years, with probably another five more to go, he estimates.
“I like the process,” he said, adding that he enjoys working with his hands.
It’s heartening to know that Robinson has a high reality quotient, that he doesn’t have some abstract arty hobby like painting or poetry, and actually likes being “ordinary”.
In fact, last January, the USA Network, a programme to recognise those positively influencing American culture, honoured Robinson as “Character Approved”.
Robinson was born in Memphis but grew up as a surfer dude in the affluent Orange County. His father was a doctor, and Robinson, one in a family of five, had his earliest exposure to fashion when he made self-designed shorts and sold them to friends in high school.
A checked shirt worn with reinvented denim and boots. Even back then, he was always his own Pied Piper and while everyone else chose mainstream careers or sports, Robinson made a conscious choice to be a fashion designer after watching a film featuring American talents such as Calvin Klein and Jeffrey Banks.
“There I was, really worried that my parents would be upset but later, they told me that they were actually relieved that I didn’t want to do medicine. They were just glad that I made my own choices,” he laughed.
Robinson was accepted into the renowned Parsons School of Design in New York City, and spent some time at the American College in Paris. One of his first fashion gigs was designing for noted Italian designer Giorgio Armani for his bridge line, Le Collezioni. He went on to design for renowned labels Anne Klein. Paco Rabanne and Perry Ellis, and sold under his own label for a while before coming onboard Gap.
“I try to tell stories from a design standpoint. At some stage, fashion is deemed unreachable but Gap brings it to the common folk.
“I’m not a big fan of high fashion. My clothes are in the stores, seen in airports and everywhere else. Like the Navajo jacket, for instance. I get that. For me, the most satisfying thing is when I see people on the street wearing pieces from the collection,” he said.
In a follow-up e-mail interview later, he said: “Gap is always casual and timeless. Fast fashion is a lot of fun and there’s a place for it but it’s not what we do. For us it’s about great quality that’s timeless.”
Colour runs of knits and sweaters worn with shorts and snazzy Pierre Hardy boots. Colours play a big part in the world according to Gap and Robinson, who admitted to loving the brand and being raised on it since he was a child, explained further: “I find the idea that so many people love and wear the brand equally an honour and a challenge. I love it when our customers take pieces from our collection and wear them in their own individual way – I find that truly inspiring.”
There’s no mistaking the loyalty as he affirmed that his wardrobe consists mostly of Gap stuff which, he exclaimed: “I have to pay for them all, just like everyone else!”
Also in the e-mail reply, he explained that they work on a collection some nine months to a year ahead. “When the team bring their suggestions to the table, we discuss, see what we all love most. Then, we start sketching, looking at samples, working on fit and then we work on the show six months before the collection hits stores.”
And what are some of Robinson’s golden rules and parameters when dreaming up new designs for Gap?
“Pieces should always be cool, understated, timeless and true to the idea of original American casual style,” he said.
Admittedly, these are challenging times, not just for the fashion industry but for the world over. But if Robinson is indeed the man with the sword, then things should augur well for the label as he makes sure nothing slips through the gap.
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