The Manuel Mota bridal collection draws upon glamorous styles of the past while updating it with elegance.

THERE is a touch of Parisian glamour, a reference to classical ballet and an adaptation of designs from past eras. Fittingly, the Manuel Mota 2012 bridal collection shows that today’s bride is “sophisticated with a minimalist touch, a kind of 21st-century Audrey Hepburn”.

“We have created a tranquil, relaxed collection, in line with the growing popularity of civil ceremonies, choosing alternatives to typical fabrics such as organza and chiffon, and bringing back tulle, a timeless natural fabric, which is also very current,” expressed Pronovias creative director Manuel Mota in a press release.

An evident characteristic in the collection is the play with voluminous skirts.

Manuel Mota, creative director of Pronovias, with models showcasing the Manuel Mota 2012 collection.

Sweeping cloak-inspired skirts portray grandeur while silk skirts look fantastic in contrast with handmade goose-feather bodices and short, 1950s-style veils.

For women who prefer simpler versions, there are loose-fitting gowns with low waists and empire-line chiffon gowns, also feather trimmed.

Meanwhile, drawing inspiration from the past are elegant 1930s-style designs in bias-cut satin, while creations with fluffy feathers and tutus break away from rigid, reinforced designs.

There are also designs for brides who cherish tradition in the form of bridal gowns with train, made from fine fabrics such as Mikado silk, to be worn with the traditional mantilla and veil.

The collection showcases strapless gowns as well as boat necks and particularly, asymmetric necklines, which highlights the beauty of bare shoulders.

In terms of details, items are thoughtfully created to render an antique flavour, such as threaded white porcelain beads (made with platinum threads created by mixing gold and silver fibres), and Swarovski vintage, an effect achieved by bathing the crystals in aniline to produce a matte, misty look of yesteryear.

In addition, floral appliqués in scissor-cut organza give a frayed look while for the finishing touch, accessories such as feather boleros, petals, capes and ponchos complete the designs.

Via an e-mail interview, Mota elaborates on his latest collection.

What are the highlights or key features of the 2012 Manuel Mota collection?

You always have to be ready to adapt to each bride’s individual personality and style, playing with very different elements such as a certain bodice, some chiffon trousers or a Jackie O-style shift dress combined with a coat or stole. This year, the spotlight is on the elegance of the couture brides, the fantasy of the glamorous women, the practicality and city spirit of cosmopolitan women and, lastly, the designs that the dreamiest brides could wish for.

Divine bride: Strapless gown with tulle skirt and embellished bodice from the Manuel Mota 2012 bridal collection.

You mentioned that “in line with the growing popularity of civil ceremonies, you have created a tranquil, relaxed collection”. Are designs more practical and simple because of civil ceremonies?

Bridal tastes have changed substantially and conventions are decreasing all the time. Brides have access to a great deal of information about fashion and are looking for a special gown for a special day, more from a leisurely, rather than a formal, point of view, which is why bridal gowns are becoming more and more like evening dresses. Sometimes the bride wants a formal gown for the ceremony, but wants a second, less formal gown for the celebration.

How do you come up with a different design every time?

I try to stay away from the conventional characteristics of wedding gowns, suggesting different styles for each bride until we find the perfect one for her. My idea is to flatter the bride as much as possible. It is important to me to create soft, light, ethereal gowns. In short, what I want is for the bride to feel good, comfortable and look beautiful in her dress.

When and how did you first get interested in designing wedding gowns?

When I was a child I saw some photographs of Audrey Hepburn and her beauty and attire left a mark on me. I thought it would be wonderful to make beautiful dresses and started imagining and drawing them, without ever thinking that this could lead to a career.

What are your personal favourite features in a wedding gown in terms of neckline, material and cut?

After 20 years of working in bridal fashion, I must say I enjoy working with all types of styles and necklines, depending on the (present) trends. When it comes to fabrics, my must is always lace, and I have a special predilection for tulle and silk tulle.

Gown with appliqued bodice and cloak inspired skirt.

Who is the one woman you would love to design a wedding gown for? What would your design look like?

Every bride who comes to see me is a challenge, or should I say, the greatest challenge. She wants to look beautiful, see her dreams come true, and you are her ally. Every bride causes excitement, the excitement of seeing a smile of satisfaction appear on her face when she sees the dress you offer her.

Who inspires you in the world of fashion or fashion design? Why?

(My ideas come) from art books, fashion, jewellery and my friends; the clients who come to us, the street, the people of my generation. In any event, I don’t really believe in inspiration, and if it does exist, it comes to you while you work.

How do you think wedding gown trends have evolved in the last 10 years?

Trends in fashion are cyclic, but in the last 10 years in bridal fashion, the wedding dress is now closer to evening wear. (There are) more subtle designs, always in white, but lighter and much more comfortable to wear.

How do you see wedding gown trends changing in the next 10 years?

The evolution will be very close to the fashion industry evolution, but the trend is to take care of little details and use good fabrics.

● The Manuel Mota Collection 2012, priced from RM10,000, is available exclusively at Designer Bridal Room in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. For more information, go to designerbridalroom.com.my.

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