Thursday March 21, 2013
Spring/Summer 2013 makeup: Tis the season of subtlety
By WONG LI ZA
The makeup trend for Spring/Summer 2013 is all about soft lines and simplicity.
THERE is use of bright colours, but in small doses. You can still expect smoky eyes but in a reinterpreted manner. Lips can be decked out in neon to hot pink but as a whole, pared down in neutrals.
These are just some of the highlights of the Spring Summer 2013 (SS13) makeup trends unveiled to the media by Canadian cosmetics brand M.A.C. recently.
Moving away from hard lines, SS13 is all about soft, blended looks, with emphasis on fluidity and a minimalist approach.
“This season is about keeping it simple. It’s about choosing one element and making that the feature,” said James Molloy, M.A.C.’s director of makeup artistry (Asia Pacific), who was in Kuala Lumpur recently for its trends presentation.
A play on bright colours like neon yellow can be seen but in a more subtle and precise manner. At the same time, metallic hues like copper or gold create bronzing effects and a futuristic feel. There is also strong attention paid to the sun-kissed look, characterised by creamy, rich tones and pale lips.
“Imagine a girl just coming out of the waters,” elaborated Briton Molloy, who is based in Hong Kong.
This season, he added, the focus is still on the quality of skin and the desire for a naturally matte face.
However, hints of past eras reworked for the modern day can be detected, especially from the 60s, with either a “free-spirited bohemian use of pastel colour or a retro flash of silver”.
As with every season, the SS13 makeup trend is divided into four categories – skin story, colour trend, bronzing and avant-garde. The four key looks are Sig-nature, Nu-ance, Puri-tan and Sci-chedelic.
The Sig-nature look banks on the “perfect blank canvas” and luminous skin. For this look, skin is smooth, with a luxe, hydrated feel, and lips are neutral, translucently balmed or added with a touch of lipstick to heighten the natural tone.
“It stays away from too much hi-shine or the glossy look. There’s also a return to a handsome brow, or what we call, the boy brow,” said Molloy, whose top favourite facial feature is the brow.
“M.A.C.’s chrome eyeshadow was a big hit on the runways this season. There was also lots of soft clothing with strong makeup, making it an interesting mix,” commented the makeup artist with 11 years’ experience. Among the top designers whom he has worked with this season were Diane Von Furstenberg, Donna Karan and Erdem.
Meanwhile, Nu-ance stands out for its sense of playfulness. This look focuses on creating a pastel-fluoro hybrid, coupled with flashes of silver and cold metallic to add a futuristic feel.
There is use of bright colours like lemon yellow and turquoise to add pizazz, along with mint and aqua. Softer shades like lilac, apple and peach are also popular.
There are smoky eyes but they step away from being overly intense by using soft brown instead of hard black shades.
Lips are hot in this look, being bolder and brighter with shades ranging from neons to hot pink and papaya orange. In short, Molloy continued, lips can go from matte velvet to something more balmy, but not really high gloss.
“With Nu-ance, lips are not so full, but more of a sweetheart lip. We want lips to do all the talking in Nu-ance,” said Molloy, who has worked with celebrities such as Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas, Emma Watson and Kanye West.
Looks which are au naturel will always have a strong appeal and that’s where Puri-tan comes in. Portraying a slightly weathered feel, think healthy, golden honey-beige tones.
“Puri-tan is about creating the sun-kissed look, with sepia tones around the eyes against nude skin,” explained Molloy as he worked on a model to illustrate the look.
Molloy started by using M.A.C.’s Matchmaster Foundation on the model to “let the natural radiance of skin shine through”.
“The Matchmaster gives a great matte finish and blends evenly over skin to even out skin tone,” he said as he proceeded to apply the Mineralise Skinfinish Natural to highlight the model’s cheeks, nose and also arms.
For the brows, he shared, hold the eye pencil right at the end and draw. This helps create a smoother effect.
“The brow trend is fuller, straight and not so arched this season but still chic. Always brush the brow at the end for that softer look.”
Minimalist with confident colour blocking is the final look, Sci-chedelic. It is avant-garde and free-spirited, yet edgy and gutsy.
Molloy used the Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder, which blurs fine lines, minimises pores and mattifies skin, in this demonstration.
“The Prep+Prime also works really well for the under-eye area.”
He also applied Old Gold Pigment across the eyelid, giving out a bronze and emerald green mixed shade.
“The Fluidline Brow Gelcreme creates a more defined, deeper and manicured brow while Prep + Prime Highlighter not only highlights but colour corrects areas like dark eye circles,” he said.
Molloy’s top tips for the season? Use a big makeup brush for a soft finish and give lips a healthy stain.