Metro

Saturday February 21, 2009

A taste of modern Italian cuisine

By TAN KARR WEI


Photos by AZMAN GHANI

THE Il Tempio restaurant has a twisted concept, and owner Federico (Federico) Asaro would be the first to point it out.

Modern cuisine: This Lasagna with Venison Ragout, Braised White Cabbage and Roasted Capsicum and Black Olives Vinagrette is the kind of modern Italian cuisine you could expect from chef Sarno.

“I’ve always wanted to do a twisted Italian restaurant,” said the 40-year-old Asaro, who has been living in Malaysia for about 30 years.

“I’ve lived here for so long that I’ve become very Asian on the inside even though I’m Italian on the outside. The restaurant is pretty much a reflection of what I am,” he said.

Il Tempio is located amid a lush forest environment, sharing the same location as the Tamarind Springs restaurant.

Hardly what you would expect of an Italian restaurant, the decor had a very Asian theme, with Buddhist statues and wooden furniture.

Asaro drew inspiration for the outlet from Indochinese Buddhist prayer homes and Thai wat.

“It is calm here. A nice rustic ambience to enjoy good food in the city,” Asaro said.

Asaro and his wife Maple Loo would source for the decorative pieces for the outlet during their travels around Indochina.

Personal touch: Chef Sarno whipping up his brand of modern Italian cuisine at Il Tempio.

“We’re still very hands-on when it comes to the restaurant,” said Loo, 35.

“I love to backpack and now I’ve a purpose to travel,” laughed Asaro, who drives to countries like Laos and Myanmar about once a year.

Another feature that adds character to the outlet is the chairs, which Asaro sourced from various kopitiam around the country.

“They are all in different shapes and sizes. I have about 90 of them and they are all unique pieces,” he said.

Heading the kitchen at Il Tempio is chef Daniele Sarno from Tuscany, Italy, who has worked as sous chef in Castello Banfi, a one Michelin-star restaurant.

The 26-year-old chef has been in the country for close to a year and specialises in contemporary Italian cuisine.

For Sarno, contemporary Italian cuisine entails taking the basic forms of the cuisine and adding modern touches to it.

“It could be in the preparation of the food, the ingredients or the technique of cooking it,” he explained.

“For example, I would make lasagna with venison instead of the beef,” he said.

He also looks out for interesting ingredients to add to his creations, like aloe vera, which he discovered while travelling in Central America.

Pleasing presentation: Expect the food at Il Tempio to be pleasing not only in taste but also in delivery, as chef Sarno puts in his personal touch in every dish served, like this Skew of Scallops and Celery Fondant served on Eggplant Caviar and Squid Ink Cappucino.

“They use a lot of aloe vera there. I liked it, so I decided to use it in a dessert,” said Sarno.

While Sarno insists on putting his personal touch to each dish served to the customers, he also takes time to meet them at their table.

“Customers have different tastes, and I have to try to understand their tastes,” he said.

To add to the dining experience, Loo said, that there is an extensive wine list with 56 wines available by the glass.

Those who would like an element of surprise during their dining experience can reserve the Chef’s Table.

“They can let us know their budget and let the chef surprise them with his creations. The price is usually RM150 upwards per person,” Asaro said.

It is interesting to note that diners can even bring any of the chefs from the Tamarind Restaurants (which include Tamarind Springs, Tamarind Hill, Mandi-Mandi and Il Tempio) home – to their kitchen, that is.

“If you are planning a small party for about 10 people, you can have the chef cook at your home,” said Asaro.

IL TEMPIO, Jalan 1, Taman T.A.R., Ampang, Selangor (Tel: 03-4256 8200). Business hours: Noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10.30pm daily.

This is the writer’s personal observation and does not reflect Star Metro’s opinion.

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