Metro

Sunday June 21, 2009

Draw of deluxe porridge

STREET FOOD


PAN HEONG RESTAURANT
2, Jalan Medan Batu Caves 2, Medan Batu Caves, Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-6187 7430. Open 8am-3.30pm
Days off not fixed.

IN 1988, this restaurant started out as a wooden shack under a big tree in the area. Since then, it has relocated to a spacious corner shoplot, but despite the space, diners still queue for a table on weekends.

The chef-cum-owner, Tnah Boon Chong, is usually found in the kitchen frying up his signature sang har (freshwater prawns) hor fun. Instead of the usual deep-fried noodles, he uses rice noodles, which go better with the rich, eggy gravy. The freshwater prawns – sourced from either Indonesia or Sabah – are rich with roe. A minimum order of the noodles comes with two large prawns. His steamed tong san fish (from RM20, depending on the size of the fish) is also popular. It is served with an unusual sauce made from soy beans, chopped bird’s eye chillies and wood-ear fungus. The sauce has a subtle fiery heat and tastes good with the firm-fleshed fish.

The porridge, cooked to smooth perfection and served in a claypot, is another popular draw. It’s very good, possibly better than many versions at high-end Chinese restaurants. Top it with slices of sang yue (ikan haruan), frog meat, pork ribs, prawns, chopped century egg and, for the deluxe version, canned abalone. The price can shoot up to over RM100 for the porridge with abalone.

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