The eatery has a long counter that seats 25 and forms the heart and soul of its charm. — BARRA
In a corner of Kuala Lumpur’s increasingly gentrified Petaling Street is the brand new Barra Restaurant. The eatery has a warm, sunny charm, buoyed by a long, snaking counter facing the open kitchen where diners get to watch as all the magic happens.
The eatery is owned and operated by Samadhi Retreats, which runs famed restaurants like Tamarind Springs. Although Barra is a departure from the group’s typical restaurant line-up, it was wholly inspired by the talents of Spanish chef Ignasi Prats.
“It’s really because of chef Ignasi, he is such an excellent chef and Mediterranean cuisine has always been one of our favourites so hence the idea of doing a Spanish restaurant.
“And we have always loved Chinatown and this area of KL, so it was an opportunity to reach out to different diners. And I think we have hit the right nerve with diners, because we have been overwhelmed with the amazing response to the restaurant,” says Maple Loo, the director of marketing communications for Samadhi Retreats.
Prats hails from Barcelona and is the creative force behind the authentic Spanish tapas at Barra. — Barra
At Barra, Prats is the creative force behind the range of authentic Spanish tapas that pay homage to his motherland. As he spent his formative years in Barcelona, the menu alludes to his origins but also pays attention to the other culinary regions that form Spain’s vast gastronomic tapestry.
“The concept of Barra is to have a more authentic version of Spanish cuisine in a way that immortalizes the Spanish way of eating and socializing. So the word ‘Barra’ means counter, which is the signature part of the restaurant as we encourage eating at the counter,” says Prats.
Prats pays especial focus to the provenance of his ingredients in order to maintain authenticity, which is why a large portion of the produce is sourced from Spain. As the restaurant is non-halal, he says this gives him greater leeway to ensure that recipes are re-enacted to the letter.
A meal at Barra offers a lovely, casual feel, buoyed by Prats’ natural charm and his endearing quality of explaining every dish and listening to what customers want or like. One of the added perks of sitting at the counter is that you get to watch what the chefs are doing and if you’re suitably curious, you can order something that piques your interest – based on the show in front of you.
The mushroom and truffle croquettes offer an indulgent treat that is unquestioningly good.
To start a meal here, definitely look at indulging in a smorgasbord of tapas that comfortably cover vegetable, land animals and aquatic creatures with aplomb. Start with the Bomba de Barceloneta (RM32) which features a breaded potato parmentier ball filled with Iberico minced pork ragout topped with aioli and salsa brava.
“It is a typical dish in Barceloneta. So for a few years of my life when I was little, my parents had two bakeries in Barceloneta and we lived just behind the bakeries. And there was a restaurant around there that was very popular and I remember they only did bombas.
“At the time, I couldn’t eat it because it was spicy and I was still a child but everyone was crazy for them! So I felt like it would do very well here,” says Prats.
And boy oh boy, what a treat you are in for! The sphere is crackly and crispy and breaks apart to reveal an incredibly soft mashed potato centre that is offset by the richness of the pork ragu and the punchy salsa brava. It’s a triumphantly good offering that sets the party atmosphere up a notch and dictates the wondrous tone for the rest of the meal.
The rice dish is a tribute to the bounty and flavours of the sea and is a complete and total triumph. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star
Next up, take a dive through underwater territory with the Pulpo (RM98) which is essentially grilled Atlantic octopus, mashed potato, chimichurri and saffron aioli. The octopus has a lovely charred (perhaps too much char in some parts) exterior and is incredibly pliant and tender to the touch. It’s a wonderful celebration of a sea creature that harnesses its natural attributes without too many additional accoutrements getting in the way.
For something from the vegetarian persuasion, definitely hook yourself up with the charms of the Black Truffle & Mushroom Croquetas (RM38). As its name implies, these crispy little logs feature mushroom, truffle and aged cheese in a triumvirate that celebrates pure indulgence. It’s a lovely offering that is hedonistically good.
No Spanish food excursion would be complete without the charms of paella or some version of it. Here, the Arroz Meloso De Bogavante Con Carabinero (RM142) makes a case for a more juicy, wet version of flavourful rice. In this iteration – which Prats says is popular in Barcelona – the rice has been cooked in a broth fashioned out of lobster heads and is topped with the beguiling charms of carabinero red prawn, saffron aioli and beans.
If you don’t bask in the joy of this dish, there is a very real, solid reason to wonder if something is wrong with you. Because this is a rice dish that champions and parades its oceanic charms to fullest effect, almost like a top model would sashay down a runway. It’s the sort of unabashedly, reverentially good meal that is befitting a moment (or two) of silence.
The cheesecake is a smooth, sweet temptress that ends the meal on a high note.
The eatery also brings in a whole leg of Serrano ham (which weighs about eight kilos) – something Prats was initially scared people weren’t going to like – but has since proven to be a huge hit. Indulge in a portion of the ham (RM30 for 80 grams) which is paired with bread and tomatoes. The ham is one of the highest grades available and has been cured for 38 months. As a consequence, it has lovely meaty overtures underscored by smoky, woody notes.
Another porcine offering that is designed to tempt and tantalise is the Presa Iberico (RM112) or Spanish Iberico pork shoulder. Here, the pork takes centre stage and impresses with its blistered exterior that lends itself to meat that is buttery smooth and tenderly succulent on the palate. It does such a good job of suspending belief that you’ll find it difficult to comprehend how you’re actually eating a piece of pork – given how malleable and soft it is!
End your meal with indubitably one of the best cheesecakes in town in the form of the Basque Cheesecake (RM48) which is a sleek, smooth operator with a molten heart that lends itself to instant addiction.
If you’re up for it, you could also opt to wash down your Spanish gourmet adventure with a glass of house-made Sangria (RM35) concocted based on Prats’ own recipe that makes use of red wine, Cointreau, brandy and lemons. It’s a lovely, fruity, fun tipple that offers a hedonistic shot of escapism.
Moving forward, Prats says he will continue to focus on imbuing the eatery with authenticity and the promise of a true-blue Spanish experience while Loo believes that given the rabid reception to Barra, there is definitely room for expansion.
“Given the response, I think in the future there might be another Barra,” she says, smiling.
Barra Restaurant
158 Jalan Petaling
50000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 016 588 3966
Open Tuesday to Sunday: 12pm to 10.30pm
