The Neo Constant Escapement is produced in limited quantities, conferring a notable degree of exclusivity. photos: Girard-Perregaux
With its origins dating back to 1791 and a pioneer in the world of Haute Horlogerie, luxury Swiss watch manufacture Girard-Perregaux presents the Neo Constant Escapement, its newest timepiece.
The Neo Constant Escapement is the latest evolution of the Maison’s groundbreaking approach to master energy, incorporating an array of aesthetic and technical advancements.
Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux, says that the Constant L.M. was a remarkable watch, something that was recognised with the award of the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve) “Aiguille D’Or” in 2013.
“It is now part of our Maison’s patrimony, however, we did not want to leave it on the shelf gathering dust. On the contrary, we wanted to build on our know-how, push the performance envelope and make an up-to-the-minute evolution of the original concept. The Neo Constant Escapement is superior in every way. It stands testament to the dedication of our talented team and represents a new era in watchmaking,” Pruniaux says.
The Constant L.M. included a constant force escapement, a mechanism that delivered remarkable rate stability irrespective of the available energy. While it took 250 years to develop the Swiss lever escapement, Girard-Perregaux perfected its Constant Escapement in just 20 years, a testament to its inventive spirit.
In its approach to achieving constant force, the Neo Constant Escapement employs a wholly different technique where its movement uses an ingenious silicium blade that ensures the amplitude of the balance remains uniform irrespective of the amount of energy stored within the barrel.The Bridges collection is one of the oldest mechanical signatures in watchmaking and is an important pillar of the brand according to Clemence Dubois, chief marketing officer of Girard-Perregaux.
“Since 1867, the bridges have continuously evolved in terms of shapes, materials and finishes. However, this latest addition to the collection, the Neo Constant Escapement, is unequivocally neoteric and, courtesy of its revolutionary Constant Escapement, sets a new standard in terms of chronometry,” Dubois says.
Achieving constant force
A problem that afflicts most watches is that when fully wound, the force from the spring barrel, ultimately serving the regulating organ, is excessive. This potentially impairs precision and can cause harm to the movement. Conversely, as the energy within the barrel diminishes, prior to the point of total exhaustion, the regulating organ receives insufficient force which again impairs precision.
By serving the regulating organ with a constant force, the rate of the watch will remain stable. Rate stability is not the same as precision, it’s arguably more important. Indeed, once the movement is regulated, a constant force mechanism will ensure the rate does not fluctuate, conferring superior chronometric performance.
However, returning to the matter of precision, the Neo Constant Escapement is a certified chronometer (COSC), providing independent assurance of its timekeeping prowess.
In its approach to achieving constant force, the Neo Constant Escapement employs a wholly different technique where its movement uses an ingenious silicium blade that ensures the amplitude of the balance remains uniform irrespective of the amount of energy stored within the barrel.
A new design language
The Neo Constant Escapement does not resemble any other watch, however, it does share some of its genes with other contemporary members of the Bridges collection.
The dial sits beneath a sapphire crystal “box”, a feature that invites light to flood the display while granting lateral views of various dial elements.
Back in 2013, the Constant L.M. featured an off centre dial indicating the hour and minutes, however, with the Neo Constant Escapement, the hands emanate from the middle of the dial. Skeletonised dauphine-style hour and minute hands, featuring rhodium treatment, articulate the prevailing time and, courtesy of luminescent material, remain visible in restricted light.
A black track, positioned on the flange, is endowed with white markings and incorporates prominent, luminescent hour markers that arc outwards, seemingly floating above the main dial area.
The watch is equipped with a central sweep seconds hand that features a sky-blue tip as well as an arrow-shaped counterweight, a detail inspired by Constant’s famous gold bridges of 1889.
With the advent of the Neo Constant Escapement, Girard-Perregaux has conceived a new approach to watch design. The resultant timepiece, housed in a Grade 5 titanium case, is light, attractive and surprisingly wearable, especially considering its mechanical complexity. The movement, especially the escapement spring with its unique buckling blade, is clearly functional, but it also contributes to the aesthetic allure of the model.
Indeed, its symmetrical appearance resonates with Girard-Perregaux, a Maison synonymous with the legendary three Bridges and the Laureato’s octagonal shaped bezel.
The Neo Constant Escapement incorporates an array of aesthetic and technical advancements.Two large barrels sit in the upper half of the dial. The movement is dressed in a combination of black PVD and anthracite NAC. These treatments imbue the dial with a modern appearance while at the same time the execution encompasses ultra-refined finishing, inspired by Haute Horlogerie.
A linear power reserve indicator, positioned at 9 o’clock, reveals how much energy is held within the twin barrels. The movement, the Calibre GP09200, has a linear power supply of at least seven days.
The design of the Neo Constant Escapement allows the wearer to see partial views of the motion works, a theme of disclosure that extends to the escapement spring, the balance, the escape wheels, etc.
The Neo Bridge
In this instance, the escape wheels are supported by two independent bridges, presented in a stealthy-shade of black, each held in position with a gleaming screw. The design of the bridges was inspired by the famous bridges of the 19th century, but now executed in a modern style. Located underneath, a separate Neo bridge spans the base of the dial and supports the balance wheel.
Formed of Grade 5 titanium, the case measures 45mm in diameter at its widest point, making it smaller than its forebears. Moreover, the sides of the intricately formed case taper inwards, both towards the sapphire crystal “box” as well as near the sapphire caseback. These narrower areas measure between 42.5mm, a modest figure for a watch of such complexity. Moreover, the sense of scale is reduced further with the lugs which curve sharply downwards, making the watch appear smaller on the wrist than the stated dimensions would suggest.
Girard-Perregaux selected Grade 5 titanium for the array of benefits it offers. The alloy is light, corrosion-resistant, strong and hypoallergenic. However, Grade 5 titanium is very hard, making milling more challenging. In this instance, the lugs, bezel and case are formed from a single piece of the alloy, adding another degree of complexity to producing the housing.
The reverse of the watch, visible via the aforementioned sapphire caseback, reveals more of the hand-wound movement, the Calibre GP09200. Purists will note the symmetrical design of the dial also extends to the verso view of the movement with twin barrels at the top and two Neo Bridges at the base. The repeated use of symmetry and the presentation of functional parts as aesthetic features is a characteristic that has come to define members of the Bridges collection.
Watch aficionados will note that the silver-toned gear train, visible to the rear of the watch, is freely disclosed and stands out from the adjacent black movement components.
Likewise, the rear of the escapement spring, escape wheels and balance wheel can be viewed at close quarters, allowing the wearer to view the parts in motion and appreciate the movement’s ultra-refined finishing.
A rubber strap unites the Neo Constant Escapement with the wearer’s wrist. It features a fabric effect and secures to the wrist with a titanium triple folding buckle with micro adjustment. This latter system features a pusher that slides along a metallic piece endowed with six notches, allowing the owner to fine-tune the strap for optimum comfort.
The Neo Constant Escapement, produced in limited quantities, goes on sale in January 2024 and will be available worldwide at all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers, including The Hour Glass in Malaysia.
