Milan fashion designers reflect on a troubled world with serious collections


By AGENCY

Italian brand Simon Cracker works entirely with upcycled garments and reclaimed remnants. Photo: AP

Milan designers are reflecting on a troubled world with collections that mark a return to serious business attire, even from active wear brands, and away from frivolity.

This is evident from the shows and presentations at the Autumn/Winter 2024 Milan Fashion Week Men's.

Italian brand Simon Cracker explores the moment before drifting off to sleep, as the best respite from a troubling world.

The nearly 14-year-old brand by designers Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi works entirely with upcycled garments and reclaimed remnants. For this collection, the designers achieved harmony by dyeing the garments together, creating a dreamy pinkish blue of a sunset.

Colours bleed together, and become a bit blurry, as if seeing through closed eyes. The silhouette is slouchy, as if giving up after a long day.

Read more: More fashion brands are embracing sustainability and responsible designs

Men’s tailoring defines the collection, but jackets are deconstructed with one shoulder off, a new half-collar taking its place.

Garments are dusted with a glimmering sheen, as if visited by the sandman. Big bold pearls accent the looks, representing the moon. Denim garments were hand painted by British designer Sue Cloes, known for the 1981 Culture Club designs.

The treatments gave the collection a cohesion that the designers said that many interpreted as elegance - which isn't necessarily their goal. They prefer to shake things up.

"Rebellion does not necessarily come from making noise, rather maybe it comes more from quiet, from reflection," Biraghi said backstage.

"There is still kindness. Kindness is the most revolutionary thing there is.”

K-Way, the Franco-Italian brand synonymous with windbreaker with a tri-coloured striped zipper, is continuing its evolution from outerwear into the luxury ready-to-wear space with a new collection that pops with colour.

Furry parkas, quilted jackets and layered windbreakers anchor the collection. The female silhouette is fitted and business-like, including quilted bustier over a shirt and tie with a long skirt, or a form-hugging midi dress accented by the brand’s iconic zipper.

The men’s silhouette is more casual, quilted jacket and Bermuda set, or long pants with a midi-length matching coats.

Read more: Socially responsible fashion is the right way forward here in Malaysia

The looks came in sequential monotones of navy, royal blue, red, ice blue and white.

"This is a moment to show the capability of the brand, and to show different ways to wear our iconic zipper and pieces,’’ said marketing vice president Lorenzo Boglione, whose family controls the BasicNet parent company.

K-Way is moving toward using entirely recycled materials in the next few years.

"For us it is a responsibility, not a selling point,’’ Boglione said. – AP

Follow us on our official WhatsApp channel for breaking news alerts and key updates!
   

Next In Style

Can AI support fashion's climate goals? Yes, but workers may be left behind
'Performance of power': The pussy-bow blouse – fashion trend or rallying cry?
Looking back at Rohit Bal's legacy as a celebrity fashion designer loved by all
En pointe! The ballet flat is a fashion classic, and comfortable too
'One day at a time': Fashion designer Giorgio Armani on his life's trajectory
Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli transformed red carpet fashion, now what?
Vanity Fare: Here are fresh skin solutions for your body, from neck downwards
Classic, chic or gothic: The colour black can effortlessly elevate your style
Adidas says it has settled 'Yeezys' dispute with US rapper Kanye West
Ralph Lauren unveils its first women’s watch, The Ricky Trench Coat Bear

Others Also Read