SINGAPORE: The beauty product looks like a regular tube of lip tint, but it has a more titillating claim.
It purports to be a “game-changing” solution that can turn the colour of one’s nipples to a “youthful” and “pretty” shade of pink, benefiting women whose nipples have darkened due to hormonal changes during pregnancy and age.
Aside from the tint, there are creams, serums and even masks that target skin in intimate areas like the vulva, claiming to lighten pigmentation, brighten dull skin and prevent the formation of melanin, which can cause the skin to darken.
These products have become more common in recent years. Aesthetic salons have created their own line of such skincare, while retailers on online platforms such as Shopee and Lazada appear to have imported the items from countries like South Korea, China and Thailand.
Doctors are warning of the risks of using such genital lightening products, as they can cause irritation and inflammation in sensitive areas.
One company selling a brand of nipple tint, which costs over $110 for 4.5ml, said about 100,000 bottles have been sold in places from Asia to America since its launch in 2020.
A spokesman said 80 per cent of customers are women aged 21 and above, noting that men have also bought the product.
Another beauty brand which rolled out a skincare series targeting the vulva area in 2019 said two products – a vitamin C brightening serum and a probiotic brightening cream – sold close to 5,000 units in total in 2022. They cost $150 for 30ml and $120 for 30ml respectively.
“The safety of our formulations, particularly in sensitive areas, is a result of our rigorous testing and evaluation process, which includes tests conducted by chemists, toxicologists, dermatologists and gynaecologists,” added the spokesman.
Its customers are mostly women between 24 and 44, and in the middle to higher income group.
Sellers on Lazada and Shopee tout whitening products targeting the nipples, underarms and vaginal areas. Prices are from $4.30 for 30ml of cream to $189 for a box of 60 nipple patches.
While the retailers told The Straits Times that they have not received complaints of allergic reactions, doctors said usage can trigger skin problems.
Dr Tan Hiok Hee, medical director and senior consultant dermatologist at Thomson Specialist Skin Centre, said the skin over the nipples and some genital areas can be more sensitive.
“This is due to the rich nerve supply. These parts of the body are more susceptible to the effects of friction and humidity, since they are usually under clothing most of the time,” he said.
“Anything that is added... can increase susceptibility to irritation.”
Common ingredients listed in the products include salicylic acid and arbutin, which doctors said are generally safe to use in small concentrations.
“Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that can be used in the form of cosmetic peels on the face. However, the concentration is important, and this product can result in irritation and occasionally allergy,” added Dr Tan.
“Arbutin is another product that has a lightening effect and is generally well tolerated, but without a breakdown as to the concentrations of each ingredient, it can be difficult to ascertain the safety and tolerability of these products.”
Dr Chih Chien May, a senior aesthetics doctor at DRx Clinic, said certain ingredients like phenoxyethanol and ceteareth-20, although considered safe to use, may cause irritation. They are not recommended for those with damaged, irritated or sensitive skin.
But while some items have a comprehensive list of ingredients, others have little to no information, except claiming to use essential oils and “natural ingredients”.
Dr Liew Hui Min, consultant dermatologist at SOG Health, said essential oils are quite often fragrances, which some people may be sensitive to, especially those with eczema.
She added that products that have scant information about their make-up could be adulterated with potentially harmful ingredients.
“These products may have prohibited ingredients like mercury, potent steroids and hydroquinone,” said Dr Liew.
“Hydroquinone is actually a very effective medicinal bleaching ingredient which can only be prescribed by doctors because it has long-term side effects like permanent darkening of skin/connective tissue, also known as ochronosis,” she noted.
“It also has immediate side effects like irritated itchy skin. Patients need to be monitored when using such products.”
Doctors said based on the information available, it appears that the products can reduce pigmentation, but the results may be temporary and require frequent use.
Dr Chih said: “Regular usage of these products would therefore increase the likelihood of individuals experiencing side effects.”
Dr Michelle Chia, medical director at Ezra Clinic, said she has seen many women who experienced vaginal irritation, inflammation and infection after they went for genital lightening treatments at a salon, or after they used products bought online.
She added that the women felt a need to meet certain societal images, or were self-conscious after a partner passed a comment about skin darkening.
“Some patients have experienced significant inflammation which led to so much discomfort and itching, such that they couldn’t sleep at night,” noted Dr Chia. Treatment involves a vaginal examination, swab tests and sometimes anti-inflammatory medications or antibiotics.
The Health Sciences Authority (HSA) said in response to queries that genital whitening products are regulated as cosmetic items and must comply with requirements under the Health Products (Cosmetic Products – Asean Cosmetic Directive) Regulations.
Controls are in place to regulate chemicals used in cosmetic products. For example, skin lightening chemicals such as mercury and tretinoin are prohibited as they can cause serious adverse effects.
HSA has a surveillance system to monitor the safety of health products, including cosmetic types, and initiate recalls of harmful items when necessary, said a spokesman.
The spokesman added that HSA has not observed any safety concerns locally with the use of the genital whitening products.
Consumers are advised to buy from reputable sources, such as local pharmacies or established retail stores. They should be wary of claims or promises, such as skin lightening within a short period of time, as the products may contain potent ingredients, said the spokesman.
Doctors said if one is concerned about pigmentation in genital areas, one should get a medical consultation.
Dr Chia said people can consider medical grade treatments such as lasers. “It would be even better to have it done at a women’s health clinic (by) a doctor who is trained and experienced in performing such treatments on the genital region.” - The Straits Times/ANN