Cool climate, warm hearts in the capital of ice


Just chilling: Visitors in layers of winter clothing eating Madie’er ice cream bars, a brand established in 1900s by a Russian company, in Harbin. — AP

Faced with temperatures dipping to -30°C, visitors to the wintertime resort city of Harbin often make a beeline for stalls selling padded clothing to augment their wardrobes.

Oddly perhaps for some, frozen ice cream bars are also considered a key part of the visit.

Each winter, the industrial city in China’s northeast turns into a magnet for those from balmier regions wanting to experience the extreme cold and take in the sculptures built from ice blocks carved from the Songhua River, which freezes from late October to late March.

“I searched for tips on the Internet and am now wearing knitted wool pants and the thickest sweater possible,” said Jin Yiting, who was visiting with her parents from the financial hub of Shanghai, where a light jacket is usually sufficient winter garb.

Jin Yanlong runs a stall selling winter hats, gloves and boots in the park.

He said that most of his customers are tourists from the south who underestimate the frigid weather in Harbin.

“Some of the tourists wear ‘too thin.’ They come here immediately from the airport. They would find us to buy warm trousers padded with cotton,” Jin said.

Despite the freezing weather, some curious tourists are brave enough to taste the cold itself.

Zhuang Chang and his friend enjoyed their Madie’er ice cream bars while strolling on a commercial street whose architecture reflects the Russian influence on the city.

The brand was established in 1900s by a Russian company and has steadily grown in popularity among tourists.

“It’s cold, but my heart is warm,” Zhuang said.

He also compared the humid cold months of his hometown in Zhejiang province, where “people would be frozen to the core when being hit by wind”.

“But here, only my hands and face feel cold,” Zhuang said.

For those seeking a warmer alternative, there are hot drinks and steaming hot pot, a kind of stew mixing meat, vegetables, tofu and other favourites.

Restaurant owner Chi Xuewen claims to own the world’s largest hot pot, where 18 individual pots featuring a variety of flavours circle the giant bowl.

“Eating anything in a hot pot makes people warm,” Chi said.

Li Long’s restaurant uses wood both to cook the food and warm the air in the ice block structure.

“The pot also radiates heat,” Li said.

“Once the pot cover is lifted, customers see the hot food. In one word, it just feels hot.”

Prolonged cold has left local residents with few options for fresh vegetables, so frozen food has become an alternative.

Frozen tofu left outside overnight becomes porous and is particularly good at soaking up soup and flavour, local resident Liu Xiaohui said. — AP

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