There is a story about how the proprietor of “Saddam Nasi Kandar” (spelt Sadam on some signboards) in Segambut, Kuala Lumpur, ended up naming his business after the fifth president of Iraq.
“When I opened my first stall in Jalan Segambut Pusat in 1989, it was known as ‘Sulaiman Nasi Kandar’.
“About a year later, the Gulf War broke out. As we had a television, my customers would sit, watch and talk about the war daily,” recalled Sulaiman Ali Mohamed Idris, now 61.
It was then that Sulaiman’s customers nicknamed him after Saddam Hussein while they referred to themselves as Bush, the 43rd American president who led the war.
“There was no malice. It was just light-hearted banter,” he said.
Squid sambal, on of the signature dishes.
However, having watched his father grow their family food business, he knew that a catchy name would be a boon to his business.
So in 1992, the nasi kandar stall began operating under its present moniker.
“But the name was not the only reason why our nasi kandar stall has been able to operate for so long. We always take care of our customers and put in a lot of hard work to make sure our food is delicious,” said Sulaiman.
He makes sure that each dish contains no less than 10 different types of spices.
Customers enjoying their meals at Saddam Nasi Kandar stall in Segambut. ― Photos by MUHAMAD SHAHRIL ROSLI/The Star
“We do use premixed spice blends but I also have a friend who grinds our spices for us.
“We bring him ingredients like dried chillies and cinnamon and he blends them according to the ratio stated in our recipes,” he said.
After 34 years in the business, Sulaiman now has five restaurants, each run with the help of family members.
The first outlet in Jalan Segambut Pusat, for example, has his youngest brother Syed Firdaus Khan, 46, as the stall manager.
“Another younger brother Karim is the chief cook. He visits all the restaurants to test the food. Just by tasting the gravy, he can tell what is lacking in a dish.
“He learnt how to cook from other chief cooks at mamak restaurants and my late father was a good cook himself.
“In fact, we still use my father’s recipes at his restaurant in Jalan Tunku Ibrahim in Alor Setar, Kedah. It is now run by my younger sister Pousul Ameena,” said Sulaiman.
One of seven siblings, he has seven children and nine grandchildren.
The lunch crowd will usually start queueing up at the Segambut outlet from as early as 11am.
Among the crowd favourites is chicken in onion sauce, one of the stall’s signature dish. Not surprisingly, it is known as ayam saddam.
Customers also go for the delicious squid sambal.
“People like to come here because I charge very reasonable prices. A helping of rice with chicken, salted egg and vegetables is only RM8.50,” said Sulaiman.
On weekends, specials such as ayam kampung and briyani are featured in the menu.
If diners are wondering about future operations, they should take a look at the shoplot located directly opposite Sulaiman’s first stall.
Though the restaurant’s renovation was completed a year ago, it has yet to open.
“My customers prefer to be at the stall. I have shown them the restaurant, which has fans plus tables and chairs spaciously distanced, but they still prefer to sit at my cramped stall under the tree,” said Sulaiman.
However, having just recently secured more workers, he is planning to start operating the new outlet soon.
“But whatever happens, this stall will remain where I first started,” said Sulaiman.
Business hours are from 7am to 10pm daily.
