Mee Rebus Johor.
After moving out from its Suria KLCC location earlier this year, Chinoz on the Park returns to woo local diners with Chinta by Chinoz in Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur.
Classic Malay dishes by co-owner and resident chef Sandra Samad rule the roost here. In addition to her previous role in leading Chinoz’s pastry and central kitchen teams, Sandra has a wealth of experience culled from past stints at Rasa Sayang Hotel Penang, BonTon KL and q*doz Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur.
The inviting entrance of Chinta by Chinoz. — Photos: ALICE YONG
Chinta’s co-owner Teng Wee Jeh explains, “We take great pride in serving timeless Malay cuisine. Nowadays, Malay food tends to be either too pedas (spicy-hot) or lacking in subtlety. At Chinta, flavour is more important than chilli ‘power’, so you won’t need a Kevlar-coated palate to enjoy our food.”Several signature specials from Chinoz such as Salt Beef Focaccia Sandwich and Chicken and Mushroom Pie, along with cakes and cookies, are also available.
A profusion of leafy plants flanking two sets of solid stone tables and stools welcome patrons outside the restaurant while the charming vintage-inspired interior is furnished with marble-topped side cupboards, retro display cabinets and sturdy teak chairs. Old-school baking and cooking implements interspersed with framed monochromatic photographs and colourful artworks adorn the walls.
As an avid fan of mee rebus, the on-point Mee Rebus Johor (RM19) left me smitten at the first forkful.
Bendi Sambal Goreng was on-point.
The yellow noodles came smothered in deliciously thick, sweet-savoury gravy with sliced beef, chopped spring onion and coriander. Slices of firm beancurd, hard-boiled egg and a topping of batter crisps lent textural contrasts.
Another must-try dish is Chinta’s Northern-style Nasi Ulam Utara (RM33). Lightly flavoured with fresh turmeric, it featured Basmati rice tossed with more than 10 types of ulam (fresh local herbs). The myriad herbs imbued the rice with their aromatic flavours, making it good enough to be enjoyed even on its own with just a dollop of sambal.
The Nasi Campur set (from RM23) proffering rice with complementing lauk (dishes) is fast gaining popularity among the white-collar crowd. During my visit, the lunch platter consisted of rice imbued with herbs, ayam rose, salted duck egg, fried fish crackers and pickles.
A vintage table was the cake counter at Chinta.
Should you prefer a la carte items instead, try chef Sandra’s Ayam Rose (RM27), her interpretation of ayam masak merah. The chef’s blend of tomatoes, chillies, onion, lemongrass and various spices is reduced to a thick and tasty consistency, coating each tender piece of chicken with rich flavours and inducing us to have extra helpings of rice.
The house speciality of Daging Salai Gulai Lemak (RM39) was equally stellar. We relished every bite of the smoky, tender slices of beef in turmeric-accented gravy.
Accentuated by fragrant lemongrass, zingy ground pepper and the rich creaminess of coconut milk, we couldn’t help but lap up every bit of the irresistible gravy.
Chef Sandra’s special Ayam Rose.
Even the simple yet timeless Bendi Sambal Goreng (RM15) – tender whole okra topped with coarsely pounded and fried red chillies – and crispy fried anchovies hit the mark.
For a subtle sweet ending, we recommend the colourful, floral-shape Kuih Lapis Sakura (RM9 for two pieces) or the Kuih Kaswi (RM9 for four pieces) that is steamed cake made with tapioca and rice flour, palm sugar and pandan, to be eaten with grated coconut.
The meal was complemented with thirst-quenchers such as Sarbat Pulau Pinang (RM12), a refreshing spiced rose syrup with coconut juice drink, and Kasturi Asam Boi (RM9) which is fresh calamansi juice with salty preserved plums.
Daging Salai Gulai Lemak.
What’s even more appealing is that Chinta not only serves good Malay food, but in a pleasant and inviting setting. There are not many mid-range Malay restaurants around where we can bring guests and tourists to enjoy Malay food, apart from hotels or the other end of the spectrum that is street stalls, so this is a welcome addition to the KL scene.
Kuih Lapis Sakura (centre), flanked by Kuih Kaswi.
Chinta by Chinoz
24, Jalan Kemuja
Bukit Bangsar
Kuala Lumpur
03-2201 3756
Opening hours: Daily: 10am – 9pm
