The signature grass fish fillet features tender fish juxtaposed against spicy chilli in what will prove to be a winning dish. — Photos: Nong Geng Ji
Nong Geng JI first opened in 2017 in Shenzhen, China and was an instant success. The restaurant specialises in Hunan cuisine and is the brainchild of passionate Chinese chef Feng Guo Hua, who has clinched numerous awards throughout his 30-year career.
Hunan cuisine is one of the eight great treasures of Chinese cuisine and is renowned for its robust, fiery flavours, down in large part to the huge quantities of chillies used in many of its dishes. Garlic, shallots and ginger are also sprinkled liberally in Hunan meals alongside fermented black bean and pickled vegetables.
At Nong Geng Ji, Feng or “Uncle Hua” as he is better known among his peers, is committed to using Hunan ingredients, reviving and utilising traditional Hunan-style cooking and working with farmers across China to further this heritage cause.
In Malaysia, Hunan cuisine is relatively under-represented in the restaurant industry, although there is a growing appreciation for spicy Sichuan-style food. Which is why Hua decided to open his very first outlet in Malaysia at the buzzing, brand new Exchange TRX mall in Kuala Lumpur.
Hua is the mastermind behind Nong Geng Ji and has over 30 years of culinary experience under his belt.
“We saw demand in the market for authentic Hunan cuisine and wanted to target the local Chinese customer base in Malaysia who enjoy spicy food.
“Among all Chinese cuisines, Hunan cuisine is not as well-known among Malaysians. Thus, we perceive an opportunity to enhance brand recognition and provide market education on the distinctions of Hunan cuisine compared to other Chinese cuisines such as Sichuan food,” says Claire Wang, the marketing manager of Nong Geng Ji.
At the first Nong Geng Ji in Malaysia, many of the ingredients are sourced directly from Hunan, from the white fungus to the dried yellow peppers to the fresh chillies, which are also dehydrated in Hunan.
According to Wang, while all the dishes are currently 100% replicas of what’s available in China, the outlet will also pay attention to local sentiments and predilections and make amendments to the recipes – if required.
The stir-fried pork with abalone and chilli was launched in 2022 and has already sold over 700,000 meals since!
“The menu here mirrors that of the one in China, as our aim is to deliver authenticity and tantalise the taste buds of Malaysians. Nonetheless, we remain vigilant, gathering feedback from our customers. Should any dining experiences fall short of expectations, we will explore options to tailor certain dishes to better suit local preferences,” she explains.
Portions are fairly substantial and each dish is meant for sharing between two and four diners, so come with a friend or two and bring a huge appetite too.
To begin a meal here, dlook at indulging in the Stir-Fried Pork with Abalone and Chilli (RM68). Since it was launched in June 2022, this dish has become an instant best-seller, with over 700,000 dishes sold.
Served in a wok over a burner, the dish features slices of pork cooked alongside Hunan green peppers, white fungus and baby abalone. The pork is incredibly tender and the dish has a coating of oil in it that gives is a lovely slickness. This is accentuated by the green peppers which add a spicy underbelly to the meal as well as the abalone, which provides a hint of brininess and textural contrasts in the meal. It’s honestly hard not to fall in love with this dish at first bite.
The stir-fried pork with crispy radish features pork that has been smoked over fire wood for 100 days in Hunan. — NONG GENG JI
Up next, try the Stir-Fried Beef with Dried Chilli (RM72). This humongous portion of sliced beef is fried alongside Hunan dried chilli and spring onions in what proves to be a memorable trio. The beef is packed with flavour and is tender with a good bite. The true standout in this constellation is the dried chillies which are furiously spicy and laden with enough heat to blow out a light bulb. Expect to be blown away (quite literally) by this concoction.
Moving on, indulge in the Signature Grass Fish Fillet with Chilli (RM65). Here, an entire fish is filleted and the resulting fish slices are coated in a pickled chilli sauce that is unique to Hunan cuisine. The dish is spicy but oh-so intoxicatingly good. The fish is sublime – pillow soft with a firm yield and pliability and the pickled chillies adding a hot, slightly tangy quality to the meal.If you’re up for trying something slightly unusual, definitely look at indulging in the Pan Seared Green Chilli with Century Egg (RM28). As its name implies, this is a combination of chilli and century egg served in a pestle and mortar. You are meant to mash the two elements together until they meld together. Diners can decide if they want to finely blend the two or loosely pound it together.
Ultimately, though, the final taste is truly eye-opening. The chilli gels fluidly with the century egg and turns it into a lightly spicy, almost creamy coagulation of flavours that work very well together.
Who could have imagined that chilli and century egg would make for such a memorable combination?
Then there is the Stir-Fried Preserved Pork with Crispy Radish (RM78). The pork (which is made up of 70% lean meat and 30% fat) is smoked over fire-wood for 100 days.
As a result, the pork itself has delightfully smoky notes that permeate every molecule and fibre of the meat, giving it a point of differentiation and that singular “wow factor”. The crispy radish adds crunch and verve to the meal, which is memorable from start to finish.
End your meal with the Tea Oil Braised Duck (RM98). The duck is simmered in tea oil and enhanced with spices like star anise and cinnamon, which means it doesn’t have that gamey flavour so common in many duck dishes. Here, the duck is succulent and very tasty, with light tea nuances and spice-riddled notes dancing throughout.
The stir-fried beef with dried chilli is an explosive, combustive combination that is also very flavourful and tasty. — NONG GENG JI
Wash down the heat and flavours packed into your meal with the eatery’s one litre serving of Signature Lemon Tea (RM14.90). It might sound like too much liquid, but trust me – you’ll need it – especially if you’re indulging in some of the eatery’s more fiery menu options.
Moving forward, Wang says there are optimistic plans in place to expand Nong Geng Ji’s presence in the Klang Valley, so long as Malaysian diners respond positively to the brand’s offerings.
“We are currently in the process of exploring additional opportunities here and aim to establish a strong presence in the KL market before expanding to other cities in Malaysia. Our priority is to carefully observe the market dynamics and ensure that we deliver the best possible dining experience to Malaysian customers,” says Wang.
Nong Geng Ji
Lot C.91.0 & C.92.0, Level C
The Exchange TRX Mall
Persiaran TRX
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 019-226 4688
Open daily: 11am to 3pm; 5pm to 10pm
