The restaurant has an old-fashioned charm that instantly puts diners at ease. — Photos: BISTRO LEA
Nestled in a quiet corner of Sri Hartamas in Kuala Lumpur is Bistro Léa. The eatery is a combination of old-world charm and modern sophistication and perhaps that most prized attribute of all: it radiates a natural warmth.
On a random Friday afternoon – a working day for most people – the restaurant is bursting at the seams, heaving with people from all walks of life. Clearly there is a market in this area for classic French fare.
Or perhaps it is chef-owner Lau Ka Hong’s Midas touch at play once again. Lau – and his wife Celine Choong – are the creative force behind Atelier Binchotan, one of KL’s hottest eateries and also one of the hardest to get a reservation at. The restaurant has been known to be booked out months in advance.
Lau wanted to open a restaurant that paid tribute to his experience working at some of the best French restaurants.
With Bistro Léa, Lau and business partner Jin Boone Ooi looked at capitalising on Lau’s French culinary pedigree and expanding on his experience working in Singapore’s famed Joel Robuchon and Restaurant Andre. Lau and Jin had also worked together as partners on another business called Jus Resto Bar and had built a nice working relationship.
“I feel I’m lucky because everyone is like a family in this partnership,” says the self-effacing Lau.
At Bistro Léa, Lau oversees everything that comes out of the kitchen, which is headed by young chef Dimitri Rosli, who has worked in Portugal and France, as well as at a French restaurant in KL.
Lau says one of the bistro’s aims is to challenge the notion that quality French food has to be expensive. “In KL, French restaurants are always expensive or high-end. So whoever wants to dine in French restaurants, they always think they will hurt their pockets because one meal probably will cost RM500 to RM1,000.
“What we are trying to do here is more affordable, accessible fare. Also you can get quality food and quality service. This is what I’m trying to achieve,” he says.
The tuna nicoise features fresh tuna instead of canned tuna, which is what is commonly used for this dish.
At Bistro Léa, there is plenty to whet the appetite. The menu spans the width and expanse of classic French food but the more widespread options are only available for dinner, so if you’re here at night, do start with appetisers in the form of Foie Gras Choux (RM48).
This features foie gras encased in a choux pastry with a dollop of orange marmalade heaped atop. The pastry segues easily into the foie gras innards, which offer meaty overtures aplenty. But the true star of this configuration is the marmalade which cuts through the richness of the dish with a citrus overcoat and a hint of acidity.
Up next, try the Tuna Nicoise (RM48) which is made up of tuna tataki, young corn, French beans, pomegranate, olives, tomato and quail eggs. While classic iterations of this dish typically utilise canned tuna, in this installation, fresh tuna is used instead. So you may not get the usual brininess of mouthfeel of the old-fashioned dish, but what you will experience instead is the velvety sumptuousness of the lightly seared tuna slices, alongside the other ingredients. Overall, this is a light offering that still ticks all those requisite high notes.
Ratatouille was created in the 18th century in France and continues to remain a firm favourite in French restaurants.
For something from the vegetarian persuasion, look at sampling Lea’s Ratatouille (RM25) which features bell pepper, eggplant and zucchini. Ratatouille hit the big-time after the animated film of the same name was released back in 2007, but its roots hark back to the 18th century in France, when poor farmers in Provence created this hearty vegetable stew to ensure nothing went to waste.
In this iteration, the ratatouille retains its rustic heart and has a vegetal underbelly that binds everything together. It is simple and yet oh-so satisfying.
Take a plunge through aquatic waters – albeit of the French variety – with the Le Bar (RM58) which is made up of sea bass, spinach cream, trout roe and mashed potatoes. Here, the fish is flaky to the touch with a light crispness and this is juxtaposed against a cream that isn’t overly sumptuous or rich but is great for mopping up the flavours of the fish. The roe adds an opulent pearlescence to the meal while the mashed potatoes are honestly just fantastic.
Lau explains that this is because these particular spuds are based on Robuchon’s mashed potato recipe – often dubbed the “best in the world”. Here, the potatoes are silken smooth, buttery to the touch and creamy all in one fell swoop. It’s a triple threat that is truly unforgettable.
Lau is the creative brainchild behind the restaurant’s classic French bistro fare.
For more unforgettable fare, indulge in the eatery’s Boeuf Bourguignon (RM88), a hedonistic offering that features wagyu cheek, baby carrots, and pearl onions. Expectations are set high for the beef and this installation does not disappoint – the meat is melt-in-the-mouth tender and so succulent, it’s like chewing on the finest velvet. It’s a hearty, fulfilling meal that will take your mind back to France – and its many comforts.
Another worthy offering is the Canard a l’ Orange (RM88). Made up of Cherry Valley duck breast (from locally sourced duck), sweet potato, pea puree, Chinese kale and orange sauce, this is a dish that exemplifies pure pleasure from start to finish. The duck is sublime – crisp skin gives way to flesh that is firm and supple yet gently yielding on the palate. All the other accoutrements add texture, flavour and balance to the dish but the duck is the undisputed heavyweight of this meal.
The duck breast is succulent, flavourful and still retains a crisp skin.
End your night on a sweet note with the Souffle au Chocolate (RM28) which as its name implies, is exactly that. The souffle is perhaps a tad dry but otherwise has rich chocolatey depths and a puddle of chocolate in the middle, all of which make for a great accompaniment to the vanilla ice-cream provided atop.
As with his previous outlets, Lau says this will likely be the only one of its kind as he has no plans to expand this eatery.
“We are still improving every day. I want to make sure the restaurant is one of the best French bistros in KL, so I think it will be one-of-a-kind,” says Lau.
Bistro Léa
1 Jalan Hartamas 7
Taman Sri Hartamas
50480 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 012-810 3638
Open Tuesday to Friday: Noon to 3pm; 6pm to 11pm
Saturday to Sunday: Noon to 11pm
