The kerabu limau bali is a delicious Thai-inspired pomelo salad. — Photos: CHING YEE SING
A modern abode in the city where classic Malay food rules the roost – that’s what three enterprising young men had in mind when they set up Hening in Kuala Lumpur almost two years ago.
Chef Mohd Syariman Zulkifli teamed up with brothers Irham Shah Azhar and Ehsanuddin (Ehsan) Shah Azhar to realise their shared mission of taking Malay cuisine beyond the usual roadside stalls into classier environs where locals and tourists can dine in comfort.
“Restaurants specialising in traditional Malay cuisine are few and far between. That’s our impetus to fill the niche with Hening, a modern, homely restaurant where good Malay food takes centre stage,” said food lover Irham, 35, who used to work in a bank.
Leveraging on their collective strengths and experiences as owners and operators of a food court in Kampung Datuk Keramat in KL, along with guidance from Syariman’s father and former hotel chef Zulkifli Aziz, the partners scoured the city for a suitable location for their maiden venture. They were ecstatic to find an old, unoccupied bungalow in the quiet enclave of Jalan Damai.
(From left) Irham, Syariman and Ehsan make up the creative team behind Hening, which champions traditional Malay food.
“We were instantly smitten by the vintage architectural design, spacious garden and strategic location. Although the owner was initially reluctant to lease it to us, we managed to convince him once we shared our plans with him. He likes how Hening, which means ‘serenity’ or ‘peaceful’ in Malay, has given his house a new lease of life, and he has since become one of our regulars,” added Irham.
The bungalow’s original design and retro details such as terrazzo floors and room configurations have been preserved. Ehsan, 33, a qualified architect, relied on his expertise to refresh Hening with a bright, all-white interior scheme. A collection of eye-catching artworks depicting kampung and city scenes by local artist Rahim Ismail adds vibrant splashes of colour and visual interest throughout the house.
“Hening also serves as an art gallery of sorts. Guests get to admire the artist’s handiwork up-close and can also purchase any of the pieces displayed. For the artist, Hening is an unconventional space to showcase his works and a convenient place to bring clients for viewings. It’s a win-win collaboration for both parties,” said Ehsan.
The partners’ roles are clearly defined at Hening. With 17 years of F&B industry experience under his belt, chef Syariman is responsible for the restaurant’s food and kitchen operations.
Local artworks and colourful wallpaper lend vibrant colours to one of the dining rooms inside Hening.
“My interest in food started back when I used to help out at my father’s restaurant,” said Syariman. His past culinary stints include working at Ben’s Independent Grocer, a restaurant in Genting Highlands and Sushi King, among others. In addition to Western and Japanese cuisine, Syariman is equally adept at Malay food.
According to him, the process for Italian, French and Japanese cuisine is simpler compared to Malay cuisine.
“Our food requires more preparation, but cooking Malay food is second nature to me. Personally, I find nothing compares to a plate of rice with fried fish, a sunny side-up egg and sambal belacan!”
Marketing and money matters are Irham’s forte while Ehsan handles the restaurant’s manpower and work schedules.
“In my spare time, I enjoy riding my motorbike to hunt for good Malay food, especially hole-in-the-wall places,” said Irham.
The biggest challenge in running a restaurant is hiring staff, especially for the kitchen as they have to compete with hotels and more established restaurants.
The masak lemak siakap goreng features fried fish against a backdrop of a rich, turmeric-accented gravy enhanced with coconut milk.
“Fortunately, we were able to draw some local talents as our current opening hours allow us time to spend with our families. We’re not open for dinner unless there are bookings for weddings or special evening events,” said Ehsan.
In their quest to serve authentic, quality Malay food at Hening, they even go the extra mile to source for the best keropok lekor from Terengganu and pekasam from Perak. Despite their good intentions and extra effort, some customers still claim the food is not authentic enough.
“As long as we remain true to our own vision, we believe the majority of Hening customers will support us,” said Irham. “Our prices are affordable, geared towards the middle and upper income crowd. So far, Hening has garnered positive response from the day we opened,” said Irham.
Running a restaurant is a learning curve which the partners are still adjusting to. Irham admitted they have since learnt to plan ahead for the marketing.
“We cannot just wait for customers to show up. If we want to ensure a steady flow of customers, we need to take certain initiatives to tide us over, especially during the quieter months. Hening can accommodate up to 160 diners, including the outdoor garden so it’s ideal for weddings and corporate events which we hope we can cater for in the coming months,” he shared.
Fruit juices go into making Hening Senja, Hening Pagi and Hening Malam, which are the special drinks at the restaurant.
Hening’s menu highlights chef Syariman’s take on Johor and Perak specialities. For lunch, most dishes are conceived for communal sharing and best enjoyed alongside Nasi Putih Daun Pisang (RM4 each), steamed basmati rice wrapped in banana leaf.
Kerabu Limau Bali (RM15), a Thai-inspired spicy-tangy-salty pomelo salad is a nice opening salvo to whet the appetite before proceeding to the signature Ikan Pekasam Utara (RM15). This traditional Perakian speciality of fermented ikan loma (river carp) with ground roasted rice and salt comes sautéed with sliced chillies and onion. That slightly funky and acidic sour-salty taste of the crisp pekasam fish and gritty ground rice isn’t for the faint-hearted, but addictive if you appreciate its unique flavour.
Notable mains worth sampling include Masak Lemak Daging Bakar (RM40) – smoky grilled beef slices; Masak Lemak Siakap Goreng (RM45) – deep-fried whole sea bass in rich, turmeric-accented curry; Daging Batang Pinang Bakar Air Asam (RM40) – skewers of grilled tenderloin served with subtly spicy tangy tamarind sauce with chopped tomatoes and onions; and Johor-style Asam Pedas Jenahak (RM45), a fleshy hunk of snapper in mellow chilli and tamarind gravy.
Skewers of grilled meat are paired with a tangy air asam in this dish of daging batang pinang.
Available desserts include Pisang Madu Tiga (RM12), caramelised bananas with vanilla ice cream; and Sago Gula Melaka (RM10) with cubed fresh mango. Hening also has tea-time treats such as curry puffs, onde-onde and bubur cha cha from 3pm.
There are interesting thirst-quenchers such as Hening Pagi (RM12) using fresh pomegranate; Hening Senja (RM12) with crushed strawberries, soda and lemon; and Hening Malam (RM12) featuring fresh watermelon juice with soda.
You’d do well to add the tranquil haven of Hening to your list of delicious Malay restaurants.
Hening Restaurant
56, Lorong Damai 1
Jalan Damai
55000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 017-331 6964
Open daily: 8am to 6pm
