MIXING bold, contemporary flavours with comfort favourites is the strength of a chef with two decades’ experience in the culinary industry under his belt.
Specialising in Western cuisine and with a distinguished background as chef de cuisine at Sabayon EQ Kuala Lumpur, Jonathan Heng masterfully fuses flavours from various countries to bring a unique twist to each dish.
This is evident in his offering of grilled Spanish octopus with its burst of flavours.
The firm texture of the octopus is delightful, while the sweet and tangy lemon herb vinaigrette leaves a good end note on the palate.
It is topped with merguez (lamb sausage) that adds a rich, savoury depth to the dish.
The grilled Spanish octopus is one of the highlights of the new menu at Cedar Restaurant and Bar, located at Impiana KLCC Hotel on Jalan Pinang, Kuala Lumpur.
“Spanish octopus is generally larger and have a firmer texture.
“Marinated with paprika and cumin powder, the octopus pairs well with the lamb sausage meat, which has been removed from its casing,” said Heng, now Impiana KLCC Hotel’s executive sous chef.
The six-course tasting menu starts with light flavours and gradually builds in intensity.
The hors d’oeuvre is Hokkaido scallop tartare.
Tender, sweet scallops are diced and arranged in a circle, holding a serving of ajoblanco, which is a chilled Spanish almond soup that pairs beautifully with the shellfish.
A hint of savouriness from the Oscietra caviar and bits of pickled beetroot add another layer of flavour, texture and colour.
Next, crispy, plump prawns grilled to perfection are served on a bed of lettuce, topped with ebiko.
Each prawn is wrapped in kaffir lime mayonnaise, lending it a creamy, citrusy note.
The appetiser is an interesting take on the prawn cocktail and prawn salad combined.
We are then served an apple sorbet topped with warm lemon foam to cleanse the palate.
Compared to the first two dishes, the pan-seared foie gras that follows is filled with umami.
The golden-brown duck liver is served with French puy lentil ragout.
Dots of apple gel and finely diced apple balance out the rich foie gras, providing a hint of freshness to the dish.
The Australian Wagyu strip loin MB7 is served next.
The meat is presented in bordelaise sauce, accompanied by truffle mashed potatoes and broccolini.
While I feel that the presentation could be improved, the dish has irresistibly rich flavours.
The bold truffle notes in the potatoes along with the tenderness of the marbled meat and accompanying sauce make for a truly enjoyable experience.
For dessert, we have Crêpe Suzette, where the classic French delight is served with beurre Suzette – caramelised sugar and butter sauce with a hint of orange flavour – alongside a scoop of Madagascar vanilla ice-cream.
The creamy, aromatic sweetness of vanilla balances the zesty, slightly tangy sauce, creating a harmonious blend of textures and flavours.
Visitors can also try Rigatoni al Salmone which features smoked salmon enveloped in a velvety tomato cream sauce, topped with freshly grated Parmesan cheese or the Basque Burnt Cheesecake that comes with a light Chantilly cream.
Do note that the serving sizes in this tasting review do not reflect the actual portions of the dishes.
CEDAR RESTAURANT AND BAR, Level 15, Impiana KLCC Hotel, Jalan Pinang, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 012-954 1119 ) Business hours: 5pm to 1am, Tuesday to Sunday.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.