Semperit cookies, also known as kuih semperit, are buttery and crumbly cookies that are popular for occasions like Hari Raya, Chinese New Year and Christmas. Photos: Kalsom Taib
When my husband Shafee was transferred from Teluk Datuk to Kuala Lumpur on 11 June 1969, we first rented a lovely single-story house at Jalan Liew Wen Chee, off Jalan Yap Kuan Seng, which was very near my parents’ house at Jalan Mayang.
It was just a short stay, as in early 1970, Shafee was allocated a government house at Jalan Ampang Hilir. We stayed there for ten years. Jalan Ampang Hilir was a tranquil neighbourhood known for its government quarters, home to many government officials and their families, providing a sense of community and stability amidst the hustle and bustle of Kuala Lumpur.
The area was characterised by its serene environment, tree-lined streets and the unmistakable aura of a bygone era, reflecting the architectural simplicity and functional design of mid-20th century government housing. These single-story bungalows were more than just residences, they housed a close-knit community.
Living in the government quarters fostered a sense of camaraderie among the residents, who often worked together and shared similar lifestyles. Residents formed strong bond with their neighbours, often gathering for social events, communal meals and festive celebrations. This sense of community was a defining characteristic of life at the government quarters.
It was in Ampang Hilir that I became friends with Rozina Majeed (fondly known as Mak Oh). She was my next-door neighbour, my house number was 3420 and hers was 3421, and our kitchens faced each other. She lived with her husband, Abdullah Yunus, a teacher, whom she met whilst doing the teacher training course in Kirby, United Kingdom, in 1955. They have three children, Ain Nadzimah, Ahmad Azhar and Ahmad Redza.
It was a friendship that began in Ampang Hilir in 1970 – a friendship that would last a lifetime. Mak Oh and I were twelve years apart in age when we met, Mak Oh was 40 years old and I was 28. Despite the age difference, we became steadfast friends, sharing many interests and enjoying each other’s company immensely.
The late Mak Oh (right) and the writer in 2001. Photos: Kalsom Taib
We complemented each other – Mak Oh was a great cook whilst I was an ‘armchair’ cook. Mak Oh was a woman whose love of cooking and sharing recipes left a lasting impression on all who knew her. Mak Oh’s kitchen was the heart of her home, where she spent countless hours preparing delicious meals and perfecting her recipes. She had a passion for sharing her home-cooked food with others, creating warm and welcoming atmosphere for family and friends. Her legacy lives on through the cherished recipes and the love she poured into every dish, making her memory a source of comfort and inspiration for family and friends.
I can still remember the three doll cakes she made for my daughters’ birthdays. Mak Oh was not only a fantastic cook and a talented baker but she was also very artistic and made all the dulang hantaran (wedding trays) for my four children’s weddings. She had magic hands – and could turn ribbons and crepe paper into beautiful flowers.
When I decided to do my last cookbook, Recipes are for Sharing in 2021, I was flipping through my hand written recipe book that I started when I was 15, and I came across Mak Oh’s recipe for semperit cookies. My memories flashed back to the many times I had spent in Mak Oh’s kitchen weeks before Hari Raya watching her bake her cookies.
She was well known for her semperit cookies. She would skillfully place the dough in a cookie press maker fitted with a thin nozzle, then pushed the dough, cut it into 4 cm lengths and placed on the baking tray. I can still remember her words ringing in my ears – the secret to perfect semperit cookies was not just in the ingredients, but in the love and care put into making them.
Semperit cookies, also known as kuih semperit, are buttery and crumbly cookies that are popular for occasions like Hari Raya, Chinese New Year and Christmas. The exact origins are somewhat ambiguous, as with many traditional recipes passed down through generations. It is widely believed that these cookies were inspired by European butter cookies introduced during the colonial period, particularly by the British and Dutch.
The name ‘semperit’ itself is thought to be derived from ‘spritz’, a German word associated with the technique of extruding dough through a nozzle or press, which aligns with the method used to shape these cookies.
Being an ex-teacher, she was very precise in her instructions and even mentioned the brands of the ingredients (Brown & Polson cornflour, golden churn butter and Bird’s custard powder). Her recipe was simple yet yielded a cookie that was rich in flavour and texture.
Mak Oh would first measure the flour, corn flour and custard powder, then sift them and mix them together. She would cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. When the sugar was dissolved, she would add the egg and vanilla essence. She would then fold in the flour, corn flour and custard powder, a little at a time until a soft dough was formed.
She would then place the dough into a cookie press maker (fitted with a thin nozzle), cut the dough into four-cm lengths and place them on the baking trays and bake them in the oven for about 15 minutes. As the cookies baked, the kitchen would be filled with the aroma of butter and vanilla. When the cookies were finally ready, they were a sight to behold – golden, delicate and crispy.
Mak Oh said that the key to perfect semperit cookie lies in baking them at the right temperature to ensure they remain tender and crumbly.
At my first bite, the cookie would crumble perfectly, melting in my mouth and filling me with a sense of nostalgia and warmth. Mak Oh served the semperit cookies with a cup of Earl Grey tea - a perfect combination.
Mak Oh’s legacy live on through the cherished recipes and the love she poured into every dish, making her memory a source of comfort and inspiration not only to her family but also her friends. Mak Oh passed away on 22 May 2016. Al Fatihah.
The Ampang Hilir government quarters are all gone – demolished. In its place is the International School of Kuala Lumpur (ISKL), opened in 2018. Whenever I visit my sister, Noni, in Persiaran Madge, off Jalan Ampang Hilir, I would pass ISKL and fondly recall the ten years we lived there, remembering the unique charms and sense of belonging that characterised the Ampang Hilir neighbourhood.
The bungalows were more than just homes, they were the heart of a vibrant community. The architecture, lifestyle, and the sense of camaraderie that existed then continue to be cherished by those who experienced them, even as the area evolved to meet the demands of a modern city. It was also the place where Mak Oh shared her scrumptious semperit cookies with me. I am sharing her recipe in this column, in memory of my very dear friend.
Makes 80 – 100 pieces
2 lightly greased baking trays
cookie press maker
Sift together250 gm flour
90 g corn flour
90 g custard powder
185 g butter
155 g caster sugar
1 egg
2 tsp vanilla essenceMethodPreheat the oven to 160 degree C.
Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.
When the sugar has dissolved, add the egg and vanilla essence.
Fold in the sifted flour, corn flour and custard powder, a little at a time, until a soft dough is formed.
Place the dough in a cookie press maker fitted with a thin or thick flower -shaped (semperit) nozzle of your choice; this produces a crispier cookie.
Push out the dough, cut into 4cm lengths, and place on the baking trays.
Bake for about 15 minutes. When cool, store in an airtight container.
Datin Kalsom Taib is an award-winning cookbook author and publisher. The views expressed here are entirely her own.
