Celebrating the diversity of a noodle dish with multi-faceted flavours.
Malaysia is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, and while the people may be different in terms of race, religion and creed, we all have one thing in common – we are fiercely proud of our food!
Probably the one dish that best reflects the adventurous palate of Malaysians and provides an exotic mix of flavours is the humble bowl of laksa. A noodle dish that usually comes with spicy soup, it’s considered a full meal by itself.
Sour, spicy, salty and sweet – a bowl of laksa offers a combination of these taste notes, and sometimes all four at the same time. Every state has its own interpretation of the dish and each claims to be better than the other! While we agree to disagree, let’s celebrate the diversity of laksa! ― Compiled by Patsy Kam
1 Laksam
Commonly found in Kedah and Terengganu, Laksam comes with thicker, rolled rice noodles, and is mild and creamy in flavour. While ingredients for the broth are similar to asam laksa – mackerel, coconut milk, tamarind, lemongrass and small onions – the end result is more herbaceous. Drenched in whitish gravy, this is usually eaten with ulam (raw vegetables) and sambal. To fully appreciate this dish, some say this plate of noodles should be eaten with hands like a native Kelantanese (though a pair of fork and spoon will do just fine too)!
2 Penang Asam Laksa
As the name indicates, the soup is distinctly asam (sour) and spicy, and ikan kembung (mackerel) is usually used for the base of the broth. Galangal, lemongrass and chilli amp up the flavour along with tamarind that gives it that sour taste. An authentic bowl of asam laksa, served with rice noodles, should come garnished with fresh condiments such as onions, cucumber, bunga kantan (torch ginger flower), mint leaves and pineapple. Usually a dash of har ko (prawn paste) is added to the soup for that umami kick. This laksa is possibly the most popular, found in many places outside of Penang, and people are the most divided on its taste – some prefer it sweeter, spicier or more sour – everyone has their own take on which is better!
3 Curry Laksa
Also commonly known as curry mee, it comes with a choice of noodles – thin vermicelli, flat rice noodles or yellow egg noodles. The creamy coconut-based curry broth is rich and concentrated, complex in flavour. Toppings such as tau pok (tofu puff), long beans and bean sprouts along with cockles make this quite irresistible. Protein is provided in the form of chicken pieces and fish cake, and some stalls even add yong tau fu (stuffed tofu). While most states offer a version of this, Kuala Lumpur seems to have claimed this laksa as its own.
4 Sarawak Laksa
This dish from Sarawak is often remembered as celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain’s favourite bowl of laksa, which he dubbed “Breakfast of the gods”. What makes this stand apart from the rest is its unique broth made from sambal belacan, coconut milk, tamarind, lemongrass, herbs and spices, and it has a subtle hint of sour and spice. Topped with sliced omelette, chicken strips, peeled boiled prawns, chopped coriander leaves and bean sprouts, this is served with rice vermicelli or handmade yellow noodles. The broth is quite unlike the other types of laksa as it doesn’t taste like curry at all.
5 Nyonya Laksa
The coconut milk-based broth bears similarity to the curry laksa, but is richer and more concentrated. No wonder the Nyonya laksa is also called laksa lemak (coconut-rich laksa). Hailing from Melaka, Nyonya Laksa also has asam laksa accents in that it has a sour edge. A contribution from the Peranakan community, the recipe is a clever blend of Malay and Chinese cooking, offering the best of both worlds.
6 Johor Laksa
What’s unique about the Johor Laksa is that spaghetti is used instead of rice or egg noodles. The ingredients are not that different from that used in Penang asam laksa. In addition, there’s coconut milk, fish, dried prawns, fresh herbs, spice and kerisik (toasted desiccated coconut). The reddish orange gravy is quite thick and a dollop of spicy sambal is a must for that extra oomph.
