A taste of Negri Sembilan’s rich cultural history


A delicious spread of Negri Sembilan specialties from Aunty Aini's Garden Cafe. Photo: Logeetha Balakrishnan

At Aunty Aini’s Garden Café, you won’t find coffee baristas or the bore-worthy trendy croissant.

Instead, you’ll find a menu honouring Negri Sembilan’s rich heritage with dishes such as Gulai Masak Lomak Tempoyak Ikan Jenahak (hot turmeric curry with seabass and fermented durian). This is by far my favourite dish here as I am a fermented durian enthusiast – I even have my own homemade eight-year-old bottle sitting at home!

Tempoyak adds a funky, yet creamy texture to the entire dish. This is not for the faint-hearted, so sample it only if you are keen to uncover the complex layers of Negri Sembilan’s flavours and rustic produce, and have a strong appetite for heavy-handed pungent dishes.

Gulai Masak Lomak Ikan Patin. Gulai Masak Lomak Ikan Patin.

I also like the unique Rendang Itik Salai (smoked duck rendang) – the meat is smoked in-house with local wood. The mixture of herbs, spices and coconut cream are well-absorbed by the meat and trumps any urban rendang which is often flat and forgettable.

For the full Negri Sembilan experience, you should add house favourites Gulai Masak Lomak Cili Api Telur (hot turmeric curry with egg), Gulai Masak Lomak Cili Api Daging Salai (hot turmeric curry with smoked beef) and Kerabu Pucuk Paku (fern shoot salad) to your meal.

Ayam Kampung Goreng Kunyit (free-range fried chicken with turmeric).Ayam Kampung Goreng Kunyit (free-range fried chicken with turmeric).

Boasting an explosion of flavours conjured from a mixture of properly harvested coconut cream, fresh aromatic turmeric, tangy tamarind and the main star ingredient, bird’s eye chilli, your palate will thank you for the gastronomic experience.

The quintessential Gulai Masak Lomak Cili Api may sound simple enough but it takes years to master as one must understand the balance of salty, sweet, sour and spicy. Usage of aromatics such as shallots, lemongrass and fruit pickles are specific to the type of meat used. You will be judged harshly by a Negri native if you ever add garlic or lots of onions to the dish!

Fresh herbs and leaves from the garden are used for ulam.Fresh herbs and leaves from the garden are used for ulam.

Eating here isn’t just about exploring a new cafe either; it is more like you’re meeting up with the extended family as Aunty Aini extends her hospitality from her home kitchen to invite you for a meal.

So, when you sit down to enjoy a plate of rice at Aunty Aini’s Garden Cafe, know that you’re not just dining out, but experiencing a piece of Negri Sembilan’s rich cultural history. Thanks to the dedication and enthusiasm of restaurateurs like Aunty Aini and Maryam, the next generation will still be able to get a taste of traditional fare.

Opinions expressed here are the writer’s own and the meal was at her own expense.

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