Bold and robust flavours

The inviting interior at Mera.

Characterised by its extra sour and spicy flavours, Thai Isaan food is heavily influenced by the neighbouring countries of Laos and Cambodia. At Mera in Damansara Kim, Selangor, a new Isaan-born chef helming the kitchen strives to deliver the authentic essence of her Isaan heritage to Malaysian palates.

Typical specialities from the North-eastern Thai province sees the prevalent use of fresh herbs and vegetables such as lemongrass, galangal, lime, chillies and garlic. Glutinous rice is another Isaan staple, the perfect foil for capturing those vibrant, robust flavours.

Larb Moo (minced pork salad) is a popular Isaan speciality. Photos: Alice Yong

Our dinner got off to a rousing start with Som Tum, an Isaan-style papaya salad that was fresh and crunchy. The shredded young papaya salad with its full-blown medley of spicy, briny, sour and garlicky accents left a trail-blazing impression on our taste buds.

The show-stealer, however, was the Yam Pa Dok Ko, a crispy catfish with green mango and cashew nuts. It had chunks of fluffy-light, deep-fried catfish striking a heavenly combination with the tart, salty, tangy shredded mango and onion salad, studded with the roasted nuts.

I had to try the Larb Moo, a popular Isaan speciality - a spicy and salty minced pork salad seasoned with fish sauce, chilli flakes, lime juice and an assortment of fresh Thai herbs. Usually boasting bold and hearty flavours, this version though was somewhat muted and lacked the zing I expected.

My faith was restored with the first spoonful of Tom Sap, a hot and sour pork soup. This clear, sweetish tom yum soup was a clear winner, thanks to the inclusion of aromatics such as sawtooth coriander, cilantro, lemongrass, dried chillies, onion and tomatoes.

I also really enjoyed the Sa Kork Isaan (fermented Isaan sausage) stuffed with ground pork, rice and garlic that had been left to ferment for a few days. Eaten with chopped bird’s eye chilli, diced cucumber and cut ginger, the grilled sausages had a sour edge and were a delightful complement to our red wine.

Crispy catfish with green mango and cashew nut salad.

Equally winsome was Kao Ka Moo, a familiar comfort food of braised pork trotter with hard-boiled eggs and pickles. The balanced ratio of fat and lean meat, coupled with several gelatinous pieces, further enhanced the enjoyment of this porky dish. Some blanched greens, mustard leaf pickles and a house-made chilli dip played the perfect supporting role to counter the fatty bits. The crowd-pleasing Kor Moo Yang or barbecued pork neck, was also on point. The sliced pork had an irresistible layer of fat that amplified the pork’s juiciness. Complemented by the salty-sweet chilli and toasted rice dip, I found myself returning for repeat helpings.

Speckled with loads of fried garlic, Gai Yang – Isaan-style grilled chicken (marinated earlier with lemongrass and fish sauce) – struck a chord with us as well. Served with a flavoursome dip of lime juice, fish sauce, chilli flakes, palm sugar, chopped coriander and toasted rice, the juicy and tender chook definitely ruled the roost!

Steamed with lime, chilli and garlic, the Thai squid dish of Pla Muk Meung Manao reeled us in with its wickedly tantalising flavours. The simple squid dish – so tender and delicious – in the flavourful steaming hot sour and spicy sauce definitely had our approval. Last but not least, a scrumptious serving of Crispy Pork Fried Rice, laden with cubes of crispy pork crackling and wispy egg, rounded off our slew of main courses.

Naturally coloured with pandan juice and pumpkin purée, Bua Loy (floating lotus in Thai) which consisted of glutinous rice balls in sweetened coconut milk, brought the curtains down on our unforgettable meal. Soft and slightly chewy, the glutinous rice balls were nice and light, an interesting sweet conclusion.

Prices for the a la carte menu start from RM38. Diners can also ask for the chef’s table featuring a specially curated menu priced from RM150++ upwards per person.

Mera

6, Jalan SS20/10

Damansara Kim

Petaling Jaya

Selangor

Opening Hours:

Lunch: 12pm - 2.30pm

Dinner: 5pm - 10pm Closed on Mondays