It’s been an amazing journey for chef David Chin.
When the going was still good, chef David Chin decided to take a break from all his businesses at the young age of 58 in 2010. He relinquished the directorship of his companies and stopped work for seven years. The man who made Dave’s Deli a household name, retired to his leisurely interests and embarked on cycling adventures with his buddies, including taking part in the Penang International Bridge to Bridge Ride in 2019.
In 2016, he started Kedai Makanan Basikal Stopover in Kuala Kubu Baru, Hulu Selangor and it was a hit, even though it was only opened for business on Sundays, or whenever he felt like it. Then, four years ago as he was walking past where Cafe Bistrot David is now in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, a thought struck him: “Maybe I should establish some legacy, reignite my passion, reinvent myself and start something again.“Darren (my son) encouraged me to open Cafe Bistrot David. He felt that I had been in retirement for too long and volunteered to help me. The cafe opened in February 2020, a month before the pandemic and we were overwhelmed by the response.
Cafe Bistrot David exudes a Parisian vibe. -LOW BOON TAT/THE STAR
“I pride myself in being able to keep all my staff during that period. We have been blessed and well-supported by them till today.”
David cooks occasionally now for special events and for friends.
“I curate, guide and train chefs now. I’ve been blessed with the gift of taste. We eat something we like on our travels and then from our memory, think about curating a dish.”
David’s own culinary journey started in 1989 with the sandwich bar Dave’s Deli in Bangsar Shopping Centre, Kuala Lumpur. Then, a marketing director with Bandaraya Development, he suffered burnout and gave up his corporate career.
“It was a big risk, but I’ve never regretted it. It totally changed my destiny and forged the road ahead for my sons,” he says. They, in turn, have achieved great success – Darren heads the Michelin-starred restaurant DC as well as Bref and the newly-opened Gai, while Brian takes charge of operations for Dave’s Deli.
“Dave’s Deli primarily sold sandwiches. I thought it was the only thing I could do,” says David. But then, he ventured into making pies, lasagne and roast chicken, food he used to love while studying in New Zealand.
“It was my first time making them, cooking from recipe books. I’ve always loved cooking,” he says, adding that he had cooked in Chinese restaurants while in New Zealand.
Bar X Grill: Specially commissioned photographs are by S.C. Shekar while the stained glass windows came from Java.
It was a time of many “firsts” for David. “I was the first to introduce the foot-long sausage. In 1989, no one knew what lasagne was and we became the biggest seller of lasagne in the country.” Dave’s Deli roast chicken also became hugely popular.
“The first chicken I ever roasted I sold without testing. It was the same with the chicken pie.”
There were long queues for the roast chicken, some waited up to one-and-a-half hours for them.
“I made a bet with my Penang manager that if he sold 200 chickens, he would get a Hennessy XO. That day, he sold 500 chickens, working non-stop into the night!”
He went on to open 40 Dave’s Deli nationwide, as well as in Singapore and Taiwan, in the first shopping mall in Taipeh where many international brands were. After two weeks, it became the highest grossing F&B outlet there.
Last year, the space upstairs of Cafe Bistrot David became available and Bar X Grill David was created. Prime, quality ingredients, mostly imported, are the crux of cooking in both restaurants.
“I have always wanted to play with charcoal fire, so I installed a Parilla grill from Spain, a charcoal oven that cooks at 400°C. At Bar X Grill, we have chef’s selections such as bluefoot mushrooms from France, and ayu and trout from Japan. We also experiment with espeto – meat on a vertical skewer – cooking it standing up.”
David brought his kitchen staff to Barcelona before it opened, to let them experience the cuisine there. They also visited Borough Market and Covent Garden in London. He believes in empowering his staff and getting them involved in the whole food process.
The linocuts on the wall are by his daughter Sharon.
Revisiting the past, he acquired special fittings for the Spanish grill, stained glass windows from the home of the sugar king of Java, floor boards from the Johor Port Authority and 100-year terracotta tiles for the stairs from a 100-year-old temple in Penang. Emotive photography artworks from renowned photographer SC Shekar adorn the walls, for which a monthly contribution is made to purchase food for the Orange Asli in Pahang.
“I’m so proud of all my children who have excelled in their own way,” David says.
His daughter Sharon is an artist whose linocuts are displayed on the wall at Cafe Bistrot David. “Brian is the one I’m passing the baton to. He looks after Dave’s Deli in Atria and Subang Parade, still owned by the company. Five more are under franchise. Cafe Bistrot David and Bar x Grill David are owned by me,” he says.
The indefatigable David, now 71, just opened his Beach St Bistrot by David & Brian Chin in a heritage building in Penang.
“It’s been an amazing journey and I’m grateful to everyone who has supported me,” he concludes.
