The inviting interior at Cafe Chef Wan in Taman Tun Dr Ismail. — Photos: PATSY KAM and SUE YAP
Chef Wan is no stranger to the Malaysian community as most of us have probably watched his cooking shows on TV, laughing (and occasionally wincing) at his acerbic tongue.
I’ve heard much about Cafe Chef Wan @TTDI Kuala Lumpur, and been meaning to try the food. A gastronomic compilation of his travels worldwide, it features an international menu alongside traditional Malaysian favourite dishes.
For lunch that day, we ordered a selection of local rice and noodles dishes. To start, we had Cucur Udang (RM36) shared among six of us. Each fritter was almost as large as a dinner plate and the huge portion came in two variations – crispy batter and the other half, a chewier texture. Both had plenty of large fresh prawns embedded in each fritter, with a generous serving of crunchy beansprouts and chives as well. Two types of dipping sauces – a chilli sauce and the house special peanut sauce – were available. I liked that it was not too oily and the batter, well-seasoned. I personally preferred the chewy batter as it had more flavour, and was easier to eat without having crumbs falling everywhere. This satisfies that love for deep-fried crispy foods that we all have!
Laksa Johor is deliciously thick with minced fish.
The first noodle dish to arrive was the Laksa Johor (RM36). While the price tag seemed hefty, it was a very generous portion with lots of toppings. Laksa Johor is served with spaghetti, cooked just right without being soggy. The gravy was thick with minced fish and well-flavoured with spices, and coated each strand of the pasta. Ikan Parang (wolf herring) fish which has a lovely sweet and delicate flavour and texture was used. To the credit of the chefs, no bones were detected in the sauce despite the fish having many long bones and we squabbled among ourselves to finish the last drop of gravy. As a Johorean, I can attest to the fact that this was one of the best Laksa Johor I’ve had in a long time, and certainly will return for it.
The Lamb Kuzi Pie (RM38) looked a little small, but was filled with chunks of lamb kuzi and vegetables. The pastry was thin and flaky, and the gamey taste of lamb masterfully masked with spices. I’m not a big fan of lamb, but the others enjoyed the pie that had a sweetish edge.
Sarawak Laksa comes with three large tiger prawns.
The Laksa Sarawak (RM39) was another generously sized bowl of noodles, and similarly a big hit. The broth was rich with spices and prawns, and came with three large tiger prawns amid shredded chicken, beansprouts and shredded omelette. What struck us most about the Laksa Sarawak and Laksa Johor was how we slurped up every last drop of broth, which is testament to how delicious they were.
We also tried Cik Aini’s Mee Rebus (RM36), named after chef Wan’s late mother and said to be his favourite dish. I’m personally a big fan of mee rebus which I grew up eating on Saturday mornings with my family.
I enjoyed the sweet and spicy thick sauce that was enriched with sweet potato, yet slightly tangy with the acidity from the calamansi lime squeezed over the dish. Served over blanched yellow noodles together with strips of beef, beancurd, beansprouts and slices of hard-boiled egg, the dish was nostalgic for me. Some of my lunch mates, however, found it a little too sweet for their liking. but I guess it’s a matter of personal preferences.
Nasi Kerabu with Ayam Percik.
We tried the Nasi Kerabu with Ayam Percik (RM45) for a change from noodles. The signature blue rice came with serunding kelapa (coconut floss), a variety of chopped local herbs and fresh vegetables, salted egg, salted fish, sambal, budu and fish crackers. The ulam tasted fresh and crisp, and the ayam percik was deliciously tender, falling off the bone. The percik sauce was rich and decadent, and the chicken well-marinated and juicy.
Special mention must be made of the Rosey Bandung (RM15) drink made with rose syrup and milk. The taste was well-balanced and not too sweet nor too milky. Well-chilled, it was a soothing accompaniment to the spicy dishes we had.
The cafe is worth visiting if you’re looking for good quality and delicious traditional Malay one-dish meals in a comfortable setting. Ingredients are fresh, sauces and broths well-made, and portions large, so they are good for sharing. The cafe interior is well-lit, cool and comfortable, and they have cakes, pastries and coffee too.
Cucur Udang is a sizeable portion.
Cafe Chef Wan @TTDI
Level 2, TT Garden
Bangunan Ahp
Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad
Taman Tun Dr Ismail Kuala Lumpur 03-2935 9375
Opening hours
Daily: 11am to 10pm
