The dining area exudes a contemporary luxe feel.
The chef expresses himself through his cooking using native ingredients.
Roots by Food Journal sits in the Old Court House, a 150-year-old British colonial complex in Kuching, Sarawak. The five-year-old contemporary restaurant features Bornean ingredients and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, drawn out by John Lim Hsien Loong.
The executive chef and culinary explorer has made it his personal mission to connect people through his food, which celebrates the biodiversity of Borneo. His culinary journey to Sarawak has been one of perseverance, a discovery of Mediterranean and Bornean flavours, influenced by industry mentors.
Originally from Selangor, Lim, 35, used to spend his childhood holidays in Penang with his grandmother who led him to discover the kitchen where she lovingly prepared traditional Nyonya meals and introduced him to a whole range of unique flavours.
Lim initially faced personal financial challenges but with his mother’s support, he managed to obtain a culinary certificate and soon landed his first job at Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, where he worked for two years. Later, he moved to Shangri-La Singapore where he spent another three years honing his skills. Expensive food products and international ingredients were commonplace there, making it the perfect avenue for him to extract knowledge from the experienced and skilled chefs whom he was working with.
It so happened that a regular diner at the buffet line asked him one day, “The flavours of your dishes are so consistent, is this something that you want to do?”
Her question stopped Lim in his tracks and spurred him to think seriously about his future. He planned his next course of action, which was to explore Italian cuisine. He managed to snag a position at Italian restaurant Il Cielo at the Hilton Singapore under Tuscan chef Ricardo Catasi and later on, Japanese chef Yohhei Sasiki, classically trained in Italian cuisine.
Following that, he joined Ola Cocina del Mar and worked under the watchful eyes of his mentor Daniel Chavez who taught him a valuable lesson: that sustainably sourced food can be transformed into gastronomic adventures. Lim’s direction became clearer and he returned to Kuala Lumpur. His interest in international cooking was further piqued when he learnt more about Mediterranean food. Lim became motivated to create dishes using local ingredients that would allow diners to enjoy familiar food prepared in novel ways.
Persuaded by his then Sarawakian girlfriend (now his wife) to explore Kuching, Lim started sketching out ideas using ingredients from Borneo after visiting three of Sarawak’s key markets: the 7th Mile Wet Market, Stutong Community Market and Kubah Ria Market. He also fell in love with dabai (canarium odontophyllum), the very astringent, avocado-textured Bornean black olive.
The exterior of the Old Courthouse in Kuching, Sarawak, which houses Roots by Food Journal.
He then opened Roots by Food Journal, in early 2018.
From the earthy tuhau (a wild ginger variant) to the slightly tangy bamboo shoots, Lim’s culinary arsenal at Roots is filled with these native ingredients. He is continuously learning from his team who shares with him how Bornean food is to be enjoyed and valued in the community.
His favourite dish on the menu is the Seafood Paella with Aioli and Garlic Chives. Roots’ version uses rich stock derived from the diversity of seafood in Sarawak, with saffron rice, a touch of dashi and bits of socarrat (the well-done layer of rice that clings to the pan).
He strives to connect with diners through his dishes created based on taste memories and unique ingredients, and developed through his own style.
He has an innate talent for remembering taste profiles. “Once a created flavour enters my mind, I will remember the flavour. When I create a new dish, this memory gives me an emotional response to create something I love. This is what I want to share with people,” he says.
Lim wants to rebuild and strengthen his team, and awaits the right talent to accompany the brand on a new journey, someone with the understanding of the basics in kitchen training. Post-Covid-19 pandemic has been difficult as talented local chefs are hard to come by.
“Young people are more eager to launch their own business than to work for others. This only serves to contribute to Malaysia’s talent exodus as they look for hospitality prospects elsewhere,” he notes.
In 2024, Lim hopes to have a new concept going for Roots, an idea inspired by the word jiā (home) in Chinese.
Lim working behind the scenes. — Photos: Roots by Food Journal
“I want to make the space more like home, with fewer tables and guests can observe a chef in action. A place where connection and conversations spark.”
Fascinated by the process of fermentation, Lim also hopes to encourage diners to appreciate cuisine inspired by fermented local ingredients.
“Moving from a place of celebration and luxe-contemporary feel, Roots will embrace more warmth and encourage guests to visit more often because they feel a connection,” he says.
Lim continues to look ahead even though many Malaysian chefs find it challenging to persuade local diners to be more open to novel concepts using fresh local ingredients. Fortunately, tourists and high net-worth diners keep his spirits up by supporting his craft, and his biggest fans are his wife and friends.
“I don’t know if I am Sarawakian enough, but I see the potential here to create and share,” he adds.
You can be assured that diners who frequent his restaurant do not just leave with satiated appetites, but also come away with a richer understanding of Bornean ingredients as they experience the rich flavours of his contemporary cuisine where local produce gets top billing.
The innovative flavours and textures are incomparable as Lim fuses ingredients with technique, paying homage to Malaysia’s diverse cultures. That’s quite a feat. Beyond his remarkable skills in the kitchen, Lim’s down-to-earth personality makes the whole dining experience all the more memorable.
