Seafood paella with garlic aioli and chives. — Photos: ALLEENA ABDULLAH
The menu at Roots by Food Journal in Kuching, Sarawak, is simple as is the table set-up. While guests wait for their mains, the aroma of the Engkabang brioche with seafood butter sets the tone.
Using nuts from the engkabang tree, the extracted oil added a fragrant aspect to the brioche which yielded a pillowy soft texture and perfect outer crust, pairing beautifully with the umami of the seafood butter.
Engkabang brioche bread with seaweed butter.
The Creamy Cauliflower Soup reminded me of Velouté du Barry, a French soup made from cauliflower, potatoes and flavourful stock. A comforting bowl that warms the soul, Roots’ creamy soup was velvety and well-seasoned without overpowering the cauliflower’s natural sweetness.
Resistance is futile when it comes to the Fried Chicken with Kaffir Lime Crema. The crispy exterior concealed succulent and tender meat, while the kaffir lime crema lent a citrusy touch and lovely aromatics to a dish done right.
Fried Chicken with Kafir Lime Crema.
I do love tacos, so ordering the Beef Taco with Cucumber Relish and Coriander Salsa was a no-brainer. A beautiful play of textures, chef John Lim Hsien Loong gave his take on the Tex-Mex favourite by combining beef rendang with the taco. The beef was seasoned to perfection, juicy and packed with flavours of the coconut and spices. The cucumber relish and coriander salsa provided a verdant freshness to each bite.
My dinner companion ordered the Seabass with Raisin Paste and Acidic White Sauce. The seabass had a delicate, flaky nature while the raisin paste had a hint of sweetness and depth, balanced by the white sauce which had a tangy twist. Topped off with pegaga (Centella asiatica or pennywort), this was a nice local touch to a Western fish course.
Beef sirloin with banana paste and peppercorn jus.
On my last visit, I also had a chance to try the Seafood Paella with Garlic Aioli and Chives; a must-order if you have a bigger party. Lim offers an impressive reiteration of the classic Seafood Paella with vibrant hues of saffron-infused rice, generously studded with an array of prawns and dollops of aioli, replete with a familiar wedge of lemon.
Each mouthful is a symphony of flavours; the brininess and succulence of the prawns infused with the delicate notes of the seafood broth, all harmoniously melded together by the richness of the rice.
Dessert was no less awe-inspiring – Sunchoke (a type of artichoke) Ice-cream Sabayon (rich and creamy dessert made without dairy) and Chocolate – a brilliant juxtaposition of contrasting flavours. The ice-cream, with its subtle earthiness, was complemented by the rich and creamy voluptuous texture, while the chocolate slice added depth.
Citrus Ice Cream with Mulberry and Vanilla Jus.
The restaurant’s signature Citrus Ice Cream with Mulberry and Vanilla Reduce Juice was a refreshing end to an excellent meal. The citrus ice-cream was bright and tangy with a hint of tartness coming from the mulberry.
Dining at Roots Bistronomy is an expression of the chef’s memories and his journey of perseverance. It’s not just about the food, but a culinary experience you should try at least once if you’re in Kuching.
