Japanese cuisine with experimental twist

Signature Maki with assorted toppings.

Tucked away upstairs at Millerz Square in Old Klang Road, Kuala Lumpur, Mitsu by Two Chefs Lab is underscored by warm, mellow lightning, dark wood accents and austere industrial vibes. A long bar counter and glassed-in show kitchen allow diners to see the chefs in action.

Although similar dishes from Two Chefs Lab and Buri, their other branches, can be found in the Mitsu menu, chef Steve Chua highlights that Mitsu is their only restaurant serving kushiyaki – Japanese charcoal-grilled items on skewers.

We sampled the Tsukune, a skewer of ground chicken and pork with yamaimo (Japanese mountain yam); Gyu Enoki (sliced beef rolled with enoki mushroom); Tiger prawn; and teriyaki-basted Chicken Thigh with Leek – all bearing a lovely smokey fragrance from being charcoal- grilled.

The two chefs’ inventive streak was obvious in the tempting appetisers of Tuna Avocado Tartare (RM21) that was diced marinated tuna and avocado tossed with wasabi mayonnaise, and Truffled Hamachi Carpaccio (RM25), succulent slices of yellowtail drizzled with housemade yuzu, truffle oil and shoyu dressing. The flavours were subtle – touch of sour, a slight lift of spiciness from the wasabi, ever so lightly salty, with umami provided by the truffle oil – setting them apart from ordinary starters.

Tuna Avocado Tartare.

Spicy Salmon Bruschetta (RM18) comprising tantalisingly spicy chopped salmon heaped onto toasted focaccia easily reeled us in.

Another on-point appetiser, Foie Gras Chawan Mushi (RM19) also scored top marks thanks to the winsome combination of silky-smooth egg custard strewn and lush cubes of seared goose liver.

The chefs’ skill in mixing East and West together was apparent in the Mitsu Signature Truffle Uni Cold Pasta (RM42), a sublime truffle oil-laced angel hair dish topped with delicately creamy uni (sea urchin), crabmeat and a dollop of caviar. Cold and springy, the handmade noodles soaked up the goodness of the ingredients, yielding an explosion of flavours with every mouthful.

Avid sushi lovers may want to splurge on Tokujou Sushi Moriawase (RM180): a premium sushi platter comprising vinegared rice topped with fresh and sweet hotate (scallop), botan ebi (jumbo sweet shrimp), toro (fatty tuna belly), engawa (collagen-rich and crunchy flatfish’s dorsal and ventral fin) and shiro maguro (white tuna). Simple but oh-so-fresh, each mouthful was pure delight.

Tokujou Sushi Moriawase.

A bountiful catch of sweet prawns, crab meat, spicy salmon, scallop, unagi (eel) and ikura (salmon roe) rolled and placed atop sushi rice made the Mitsu Signature Maki (RM49) a compelling option, defining the two chefs’ artful skill with a Japanese approach. We appreciated the distinct textures and flavours of each handcrafted morsel.

Mitsu serves up to 12 different variations of donburi as these rice bowls are popular mainstays among its clientele.

We tried the Gyu Don (RM44), a delectable Japanese rice bowl topped with tender luscious Australian beef, an onsen kenkori egg, shio konbu and truffle oil.

According to chef Edmund Chong, kenkori eggs are produced in Malaysia using Japanese farming methods.

Engawa Don.

“We also add shio konbu, tiny pieces of dried kelp that had been boiled in soy sauce, mirin and sugar to imbue the rice with complex nuances of the ocean,” he says.

Its deliciousness was rivalled by the Engawa Don (RM58), sticky sushi rice adorned with pieces of scorched engawa, tamago and ikura. We relished the engawa’s creamy richness and mildly crunchy texture, juxtaposed against the sweet and briny accents of the omelette and salmon roe.

When it comes to conjuring up innovations in the Japanese culinary realm, clearly the sky is the limit for these two chefs – Chong and Steve Chua – when working in their kitchen “lab”.