Delighting in Turkish flavours


Kadaif or sheets of fine phyllo pastry strands. — Photo: CHING YEE SING

Adhering to the Turkish saying, “A cup of coffee commits one to 40 years of friendship,” chef Ramazan Bingöl personally brewed and served cups of Turkish coffee at his recent cooking session held at Le Cordon Bleu in Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

Using a small Turkish coffee pot with a long handle known as cezve, he spooned freshly ground Turkish coffee beans into the cezve and proceeded to show the distinct brewing process.

Turkish coffee. — Photo: RAMAZAN BINGOLTurkish coffee. — Photo: RAMAZAN BINGOL

“Traditionally, Turkish coffee is served with a small glass of water and a piece of lokum (Turkish delight). The rich and intense coffee is usually taken black, but sugar can be added if so desired,” says Ramazan.

Appreciated for its aroma and stimulating taste, Turkish coffee plays a multitude of roles in Turkish society. Every morning, Turkish coffee serves as a wake-up call, bringing lively dynamism to life. No commercial negotiation is concluded without a cup of coffee, and lunches are traditionally wrapped up with coffee to counter post-meal drowsiness.

The chef also demonstrated the making of Izmir Köfte (spiced lamb meatballs). Shaping the minced mutton, chopped onion and parsley into oval meatballs, he baked the köfte first before adding wedges of tomatoes, potatoes and banana peppers, along with a flavourful tomato sauce poured over. After the second round of baking, the resultant köfte smelled and tasted wonderful. Suffice to say we were induced to go for repeat helpings.

Izmir Kofte hot from the oven. — Photo: CHING YEE SINGIzmir Kofte hot from the oven. — Photo: CHING YEE SING

Ramazan then proceeded to make Tel Kadayif – a baked dessert – with pistachios.

“Tel kadayif is one of the most treasured palatial desserts. Regional variations mean kadaif (finely shredded threads of phyllo pastry) can be shaped like a parcel, formed into twists or pressed onto trays.”

Kadaif, also known as kataifi or kunafa pastry, is made from a liquidy batter poured through fine spouts onto a heated metal plate, forming long vermicelli-like strands which are briefly cooked and dried. The kadaif’s unique texture makes it pliable and easily formed into various shapes, and versatile enough for different uses. In Malaysia, kadaif can be found in Middle Eastern grocers, fine-food retailers and online baking supply shops.

Tel Kadaif. — Photos:  RAMAZAN BINGOLTel Kadaif. — Photos: RAMAZAN BINGOL

Ramazan’s version has the kadaif compressed in alternating layers with crushed pistachios followed by drizzlings of lemon-scented syrup. Cooked on a flat tray until browned and crispy, the delightful treat was surprisingly not cloyingly sweet as we had anticipated. Its lovely crisp, nutty and moist texture exuded a fleeting citrusy scent, making it perfect to go with a cup of black coffee or tea.

Citing eggplant kebab as his signature speciality, Ramazan says the secret to the dish’s deliciousness lies in using good quality eggplants and minced meat from the lamb rib section.

Eggplant kebab. — Photo: RAMAZAN BINGOLEggplant kebab. — Photo: RAMAZAN BINGOL

“Only eggplants in their prime are used along with lamb rib meat from Balikesir to prepare the dish. After threading the chunks of eggplant alternating with clumps of minced lamb meat onto skewers, we then grill the eggplant kebabs using slow heat.

“Once baked, the eggplant skin is peeled off. The eggplant kebab is best eaten with lavash, airy-light Turkish flatbread.”

We didn’t get to try the said dish, but chef Ramazan extended an invitation: “If you get a chance to visit Türkiye, come to my restaurant and try my famous eggplant kebab for yourselves!”

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