Warmth, richness of a New England icon


New England clam chowder has a creamy base that distinguishes it from the tomato-based Manhattan version. — Photos: LOW LAY PHON/The Star

IN the American culinary landscape, few dishes evoke the essence of a region as vividly as New England clam chowder.

This iconic soup, hailing from the picturesque coastal towns of the northeast, was created when European settlers made their home along the rugged coastline of New England.

By the 19th century, clam chowder had cemented its place in New England’s culinary repertoire, with the first recorded recipe appearing in Boston Evening Post in 1751.

The chowder’s distinctive creamy base sets it apart from other variations.

Unlike the tomato-based Manhattan version, New England clam chowder boasts a rich, velvety broth made from milk or cream.

This is my preferred version because the dairy component not only gives the chowder its characteristic white hue but also adds a layer of indulgent smoothness.

Shellfish used in the US for the chowder are the cherrystone or quahog varieties, which are very similar to Pacific clams here locally called thick-shell lala.

Chowder can be made with thick-shell lala.Chowder can be made with thick-shell lala.

Preparing the clams is quite an easy task if you get them fresh in the morning.

You will need to soak them in cold water with about a cup of salt for about two hours to help them purge sand from their gills.

Do not store them in the refrigerator or in unsalted water, they will die.

Because clams are innately salty, you must taste the dish at every step of the cooking process and adjust the salt level accordingly.

The original recipe for clam chowder calls for bacon, but in order for this dish to appeal to a wider audience, I’ve omitted it.

If you do use bacon, you may chop up 150g and brown it before melting the butter at the start of the cooking. Save a bit for garnish.

The cream is an essential part of the dish, but you can reduce the richness by substituting with milk instead or formulating a mix of cream and milk to suit your palate.

You may also dilute the creaminess with chicken broth as desired.

In a world where culinary trends are ever-changing, New England clam chowder remains a steadfast classic.

It’s a comforting reminder of New England’s rich culinary heritage and a tribute to the founding of the US as they celebrate their independence on July 4.

New England clam chowder

Ingredients

100g unsalted butter

180g onion, finely chopped

400g celery, finely chopped

15g garlic, minced

40g all-purpose flour

1l clam broth

500ml chicken stock

5g thyme

1 bay leaf

550g potatoes, diced

2.5kg clams in shell

500ml heavy cream

5g parsley, minced

1 tbsp black pepper to taste

Salt, as needed

Garnish

Freshly cracked black pepper

1 tbsp heavy cream

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 sprig parsley

1 sprig thyme

Directions

Clean clams in cold water, then steam over boiling water for no more than five minutes, until they pop open.

Steam the washed clams over boiling water for no more than five minutes, until they pop open.Steam the washed clams over boiling water for no more than five minutes, until they pop open.

Remove meat from the shells, cleaning up any remaining sand and debris. Coarsely chop the meat and set aside.

Filter clam broth through a paper towel on a wire mesh.

Heat butter in a stockpot until melted, then add the chopped onions and celery to saute until translucent.

Add garlic and saute until wilted, then stir in the flour to cook until lightly coloured.

Add clam broth, thyme, bay leaf and potatoes. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce it to a simmer.

Season with black pepper, then cover and simmer for 20 minutes until the potatoes are tender. Discard bay leaves and thyme.

Stir in clam meat, chicken stock, heavy cream, and parsley. Bring to a simmer and adjust seasoning as needed.

Cream is the essential part of clam chowder but you can tone down the richness with milk or chicken broth.Cream is the essential part of clam chowder but you can tone down the richness with milk or chicken broth.

Ladle into a soup plate and garnish with freshly cracked black pepper, a drizzle of heavy cream and olive oil, and more fresh herbs.

Serve hot with crackers on the side.

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