Biryani and burritos

Biryani Chicken Burrito.

Advocating a novel culinary concept that merges Indian and Mexican culinary influences, Bircos in Medan Damansara, Kuala Lumpur, is drawing adventurous food lovers to its doorstep.

The name Bircos itself is a contraction of two words: biryani and tacos. Brightly painted walls adorned with hand-drawn murals, paintings and eye-catching floral installations set the stage for the cross-cultural culinary creations.

Although the a la carte selection focuses mainly on Northern Indian fare with only a few Indian-Mexican fusion dishes listed, a quick check with the service team revealed that more inventive house specialties can be prepared on request.

After hearing so much about the Beer Pani Puri (RM20), we simply had to try the deep-fried ping-pong ball-sized snacks ourselves. Served on a long platter, the pani puri was accompanied by mini pitchers of beer and coriander dip. After pouring in the coriander dip, we also filled the balls with some beer. Into our mouths went the crunchy balls; we discovered the beer’s yeasty bitterness overpowered the taste of the spiced potato and gram flour sev (noodle-like crisps) stuffing. We felt the beer didn’t do much for this dish and preferred the traditional pani puri, but the jury’s out on this one. You’ll have to sample it first-hand to decide if you like this dish.

Beer Pani Puri.

Typical Tex-Mex nachos were given an Indian spin with spiced lamb mince and melted cheese for the Keema Ki Nachos (RM30). Presented tableside with a touch of dramatic flair, the minced lamb with melted cheese on top was lightly scorched before it was poured directly onto the nacho crisps, giving the dish a nice smoky scent. Polished off within minutes by our dining party, this enticing appetiser was unanimously voted a surefire crowd-pleaser.

The cross-cultural formula also proved winsome for the Paneer Tacos (RM20) and Tikka Tacos (RM20). Both Indian and Mexican food usually have a prolific use of spices albeit in different formulations, so the savoury and aromatic spiced Indian paneer fillings worked like a charm paired with the crunchy-crisp Mexican tacos. Of the two variations, the Tikka Tacos made a bigger splash with us, thanks to the fish’s discernible sweetness.

A generous stuffing of mildly spiced shredded chicken made the Biryani Chicken Burrito (RM30) quite delectable. Oozing with molten cheese at its core, we enjoyed every mouthful of the lightly toasted tortilla wrap.

The day’s show-stealer was Masala Kulcha (RM12) paired with Bagara Baingan (RM20). Fluffy-light, the sesame seed-flecked Indian flatbread stuffed with spiced potato mash was a match made in culinary heaven with the piquant Hyderabadi curry of small eggplants in a thick and spicy gravy of coconut milk, peanuts, sesame seeds and tamarind. These dishes were a positive indication of Bircos’ forte in Northern Indian specialities.

If you’re in the mood for something different, Bircos is an interesting showcase of how traditional boundaries between Indian and Mexican culinary lines can be blurred, leaving your tastebuds tingling with pleasure.

Opinions expressed here are the writer’s own and food at her own expense.

Masala Kulcha.

BIRCOS

No.9, Jalan Setiapuspa

Medan Damansara

Kuala Lumpur.

03-2011 2618.Business hours:

Mon-Sun: 12pm-11pm.