Tamarind Cured Mackerel. — Photos: CHING YEE SING
Stepping into the cosy enclave, our attention was instantly drawn to the colourful wall mural depicting a tiger, a flamingo, a hummingbird and two cockatoos lurking amid a verdant backdrop of tropical foliage.
Backlit chillers laden with boutique wines from around the world complete this haven for oenophiles.
The refreshingly inventive menu at D’s Wine Bar by chefs Julia Ung and “Onion” Ng got off to a cracking start with the outstanding Century Scotch Egg (RM25). Coated in minced pork and crisp breadcrumbs, the molten-centre century egg wedges had a discernibly floral aroma thanks to the sprinkling of finely chopped bunga kantan (torch ginger flower) on top.
We were recommended to pair Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir Decouverte Vendanges 2022, a dry aromatic white wine with ripe peach accents and structured acidity, with the crispy Prawn Pancake (RM28).
Prawn Pancake.
Flecked with torch ginger flower, powdered kesum leaves and pineapple chilli, the delicious appetiser hit the spot with its crisp and springy textures, and delicate prawny sweetness.
Ung’s Otak-otak Croquette (RM16) offered a crisp light panko coating that melded harmoniously with the wolf herring in spiced coconut custard wrapped in wild betel leaves. Tiny dices of kombujime pomfret atop each croquette elevated the dish to the next level.
“I wanted to present textural and taste contrasts by highlighting two types of fish in different preparations. To enhance the pomfret’s natural sweetness, I rely on the kombujime technique – ageing the fish between two sheets of kelp,” says Ung.
Ng’s handiwork shone through his on-point Tsukune (RM27), Japanese-style skewers of minced chicken spiced with chilli and coconut.
Tsukune.
Coated in glistening sweet potato sauce and accompanied by slices of charred pickled kyuri (cucumber), the memorably moreish chicken balls were superb with the wine.
Beguiling offerings of Mantou with housemade Olive Leaf Butter (RM9) alongside Paté (RM45) left us on a gastronomic high. We were complete gluttons, asking for more deep-fried mantou to fully savour the sumptuous spread of pork liver whipped with olive butter and Shaoxing wine. Chopped spring onion pared down the richness while diced pork crackling added a delightful crunch.
Intense notes of dark berries and cherries with fleeting hints of mint from the bio-dynamic Shay’s Flat Landsborough Valley Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon formed a sublime pairing with the Beef & Squid.
The chunky, aromatic sauce of squid ink, turmeric and lemongrass lent an understated grassy-citrusy accent to the meltingly tender Angus beef slices.
Beef and Squid.
Ung’s tamarind-cured Mackerel (RM28) was another inspired dish, exuding subtly familiar nuances of Penang’s famed asam laksa. Our taste buds were tickled by bright, fresh and tangy flavours of the sauce, speckled with finely chopped pickles, mint and pineapple.
Her take on Pekasam (RM30) was radically different. The chef opted to pair young papaya leaves with daun kesum (Vietnamese mint), lightly charring the greens before serving them with almond cream and puffed rice grains.
“I want this salad to have more pronounced flavours, so I deliberately chose a heavier, creamier dressing,” says Ung.
Tang Yuen (RM35) reminded us of Hakka-style suan pan ji (yam abacus bead dumplings), a comforting, homespun taste of the glutinous rice balls immersed in a gooey base peppered with diced shiitake, Jinhua ham, dried shrimp, Chinese chives and celtuce.
Tang Yuen.
For the finale, the stellar Kaya Toast (RM20) had eggy-rich kaya melding with the sweetness of caramelised banana on crisp yet cottony-soft French toast brioche. Capped with crumbs of golden salted egg yolk for a touch of decadence, normal kaya toast after this will never be the same.
In support of small, independent food vendors like artisan ice-cream maker Minus 4 Degrees, Jung + Co. paired their luscious Rum & Raisin Ice Cream (RM24) with tongue-tingling tapai pulut, fermented glutinous rice as the second dessert which gave quite a boozy kick.
Diners will be assured of masterfully blended cherished tastes of yesteryears – be prepared for an amazing multi-faceted sensorial experience, celebrating Malaysia’s rich gastronomic history.
