Anticuchos De Lomo Fino.
In Spanish, “feliz” means happy. Diners who enter the vibrant enclave of Feliz, Klang Valley’s first and only Peruvian restaurant, would surely be happy too when they sample chef Franco Aldana’s vibrant Peruvian dishes.
Towering shelves of greenery flanking a narrow walkway lead into a tastefully decorated dining space. A jade-green glass tiled wall jostles for attention with a circular wine glass chandelier, colourful Peruvian tassel and macrame wall hangings and turquoise-toned furnishings. Surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers nearby, the open rooftop bar area features a tiered water feature and a shaded patio decorated with a profusion of greenery.
In the menu, Aldana pays tribute to his homeland’s rich and diverse food and cultural legacy.
Arroz Con Mariscos. — Photos: CHING YEE SING
Our culinary passage commenced with chicha morada, a non-alcoholic drink made from purple corn boiled with pineapple peel, and subtly nuanced with cinnamon and cloves. It reminded me of my childhood’s blackcurrant drink touched with a hint of spice.
Leche de tigre (tiger’s milk), a bright, salty-spicy marinade of aji panca, lime, salt, ginger, garlic and coriander, was the vital element in the making of Ceviche Limeno (RM38).
“We use leche de tigre to marinate the barramundi. Staying true to our philosophy of using locally sourced produce where possible, we combined local white corn and sweet potato with some canchita (toasted Peruvian corn) to lend the dish authenticity. The secret to good ceviche is to get the ratio of the various ingredients right for that perfect balance,” says Aldana.
Pollo A La Brasa.
Not only was the dish well-balanced, our palate was treated to a fiesta of flamboyant flavours: punchy sourness of the leche de tigre marinade tangoed with the fresh sweetness of white corn and sweet potato, followed by pops of savouriness as we bit into the sea grapes. We loved how the marinated fish’s slippery succulence contrasted against the crunchy canchita and crispy fried plantain.
Tiradito De Tuna (RM145) comprised raw tuna sliced sashimi- style accompanied by a sauce of cold potato pureé, vinegar, leche de tigre, cucumber and mango juices. Topped with chalaquita de mango (Peruvian salsa of tiny mango pieces), red onion and diced cherry tomato, the speciality tantalised our tastebuds with a profusion of delicate taste and textures.
Ceviche Limeno.
Pollo A La Brasa (RM118) – roasted chicken accompanied by egg chaufa, Peruvian-style salad and Provencal potato – is a classic example of the country’s multi-cultural blend of Spanish, Chinese and African influences with native Peruvians. Marinated for 24 hours with garlic and cumin, the chef told us that Peruvians usually eat the roasted chicken with their carbs of choice: chaufa (Chinese-style fried rice) and French fries. Three types of sauces: aji de la casa (house-made chilli), chimichurri (a blend of flatleaf parsley, coriander, garlic, salt, chilli flakes, vinegar and olive oil) and tartara (tartar sauce) were served alongside for additional flavour boost.
Aldana, who learned how to cook chaufa from his Peruvian-Chinese teacher back in culinary school, rustled up his fried rice with ceviche, egg, sesame oil, spring onion and beansprouts. Eating it together with the roast and fries, we realised Feliz diners took to these offerings easily because roast chicken, fried rice and fries are popular and comfortingly familiar to Malaysians too.
Tiradito De Tuna.
Anticuchos De Lomo Fino (RM158) were skewers of marinated and grilled tenderloin accompanied by white corn, sliced fried potatoes and chimichurri, and these were meltingly tender and piquantly flavoured.
Feliz’s signature rice dish, Arroz Con Mariscos (RM119), reminded us somewhat of a perfectly cooked risotto but levelled up several tasty notches with the inclusion of aji amarillo (hot yellow chilli), assorted seafood and cilantro.
Our Peruvian party wrapped up with Alfajores (RM27), Tres Leches (RM45) and Petit Foie Selection (RM45).
Tres Leches.
The first comprised two buttery biscuits sandwiched between creamy dulce de leche (caramelised condensed milk). This was pleasantly light and sweet.
The second dessert of milk-soaked sponge cake topped with Chantilly cream, dulce de leche and fruits was winsome enough.
To sample more Peruvian desserts out of curiosity without busting your diabetes score, mini glasses of tres leches, tocino del cielo (creamy caramel flan) and alfajores are available.
These are but a tip of the iceberg as far as true Peruvian cuisine is concerned, as Aldana has lots more dishes to introduce to Malaysians.
