Fillet with aromatics can serve as a celebratory platter
As Indonesia celebrates its 79th national day today, it’s only fitting to feature a dish that is unique to Indonesia.
Hopefully, this recipe is an apt tribute to our Indonesian friends to wish them a happy “Tujuhbelasan”.
Dengke naniura is a traditional dish from the Batak community in north Sumatra.
In the Toba Batak language, naniura means “without cooking” which reflects the dish’s preparation method whereby fish is “cooked” in acid rather than by heat.
Historically, this dish was reserved for Batak royalty but today it is enjoyed by all.
Often compared to sashimi, its preparation is closer to South American ceviche, where the raw flesh of the fish is cured in a highly acidic marinade.
Grass carp, which lives abundantly in Lake Toba, is the preferred fish for naniura, but it can be prepared with any mild-flavoured, neutral-tasting freshwater fish such as tilapia or snakehead (haruan or toman).
A serving of raw fish cured with juice of the kaffir lime and seasoned with piquant herbs and spices. — LOW LAY PHON/The Star
Since the fish is uncooked, not only is freshness very important, you will also need to prepare the fish in a clean environment. It’s better to get the fishmonger to gut and dress the fillets.
The key ingredient for curing the fish is kaffir lime juice. A market vendor taught me that the less-bumpy textured limes yield the most juice.
After curing, the fish will change from translucent to white and the flesh firms up with a bouncy texture.
Seasoning ingredients like andaliman can be difficult to find outside Indonesia, but you can use Sichuan peppercorns as a substitute.
Andaliman, also known as Batak pepper, is said to have notes of lemongrass and pandan, delivering a tongue-numbing sensation similar to that of Sichuan peppercorns.
Traditionally, for this dish, the fish is pickled whole or in fillets, with the flesh scooped up with a spoon.
For a modern take on naniura, cut the fillets into slices of about half a centimetre or slightly thicker.
Slicing the fish also reduces the time needed to pickle the dish, so you can serve it earlier than the stipulated four hours of pickling.
Leftovers must be refrigerated and consumed by the next day.
Dengke naniura
Marinade
250g grass carp fillet, or tilapia
6 kaffir limes, juiced
½ tsp salt to taste
Spice paste
4 stalks torch ginger flower, separate the stems from the buds
7 red chillies, split
2 green chillies, split
10 bird’s eye chillies, split
10 bulbs shallots, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tbsp peanuts
10 candlenuts
8 stalks scallion
30g galangal, peeled
30g ginger, peeled
80g turmeric, peeled
3 tbsp andaliman or substitute with Sichuan peppercorns
½ tsp salt to taste
¼ cup cold water
Reserve for garnish
torch ginger flower, sliced finely bulbs chives, toasted and lightly pound red chillies, split and toasted green chillies, split and toasted
Directions
Cut fish fillet into thin slices, then stir in salt and lime juice. Allow to cure in the refrigerator for two hours.
Slice the torch ginger flower finely and set aside. Thickly slice the torch ginger stems and steam for five minutes, then set aside.
Toast the chillies, shallots, garlic, peanuts and candlenuts and set aside.
Toast scallions separately, then pound lightly with a pestle to split and set aside.
Grind the galangal, ginger, turmeric and andaliman or Sichuan peppercorns with water in an electric mill.
Then add the steamed torch ginger flower stems and all the roasted ingredients except the scallions and grind into a smooth paste.
Stir in torch ginger flower strips and toasted scallions, then pour over the fish to completely coat.
Chill in the refrigerator to marinate for at least one to four hours.
When ready to serve, stack two slices of fish and roll them into small roulades. Arrange the fish roulades on a serving dish, then garnish with reserved ingredients. Serve immediately with rice on the side.
