The superb marbling and fat seen on a slab of raw Kobe Beef.
When we talk about Kobe Beef, know that a lot of love, care and energy go into the breeding and raising of the calves. Cheekily, the image of the cows getting drunk on beer comes to mind. Everyone has heard of how Kobe cows lead a cushy existence, getting massaged as they imbibe alcohol.
Motomu Yoshida, managing director of S Foods Singapore Pte Ltd, laughs this off, saying this practice stopped ages ago and is today no more than urban legend.
“Yes, the cows were fed beer a long time ago, but we realised no matter how much they had, they never got drunk!” he says.
Yoshida showing the bronze statue, the hallmark of Kobe Beef authenticity. — GLENN GUAN/The StarThere is actual science behind this intoxicated cattle tale. Cows in Japan live on feed all their lives, and hardly get the chance to graze on grass as land is so scarce.
In the summer months, many cattle tend to go off their feed and beer is sometimes fed to them to help stimulate appetite. And since they hardly get to exercise, massage helps the animals feel less stiff due to inactivity. But it doesn’t have any direct effect on marbling or fat content.
Japan only produces 10,000 heads of cattle for Kobe Beef each year. As a yardstick for comparison, the United States produces on average about 600,000 heads of cattle per month, and about 2% of beef produced is graded Prime, the highest quality in the States.
“That is not to say that Japan doesn’t have the expertise or can’t increase its production of Kobe Beef,” says Yoshida.
“It’s because we follow stringent procedures and strictly regulate the breeding of the cows to maintain the quality and exclusivity of the meat,” he says.
According to Yoshida, it is an intentional tactical measure to protect its prestige and ensure the lineage of Kobe Beef lives on.
Said to be the finest beef in the world, Kobe Beef has a 150-year-old history dating back to 1868 when Kobe first opened its doors to foreign trade. Apparently, an Englishman who tasted Kobe Beef for the first time declared it to be a gift from heaven!
Today, the taste and flavour of Kobe Beef is said to remain unchanged and has become a symbol of luxury in Japan, much sought-after for its exceptional marbling, tenderness and flavour.
Hailing from the purebred Tajima strain of Wagyu cattle in Hyogo prefecture, the cattle are meticulously raised using traditional methods to ensure optimal texture and taste.
“The smell, tenderness, flavour and rich taste are totally different from any other meat. It is very exclusive because of the breed and culture of the cattle.
“We don’t practise cross-breeding, and scientifically, it is very different from other meats because of its level of fat.
“Kobe Beef contains high levels of oleic acid (mono-unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid) which gives it a buttery taste, and similar to olive oil, it burns clean and has a low melting point of 23°C,” Yoshida adds.
The chosen ones
Interestingly, no cow is born destined to be Kobe Beef. Among the esteemed Tajima-gyu cows, only a chosen few qualify for the title of “Kobe Beef”.
Only those that meet the rigorous standards set by the Kobe Beef distribution and promotion council, including strict criteria for marbling, weight and meat quality, can be certified.
The key criteria are as follows:
• The cattle must be born, raised and slaughtered only in Hyogo perfecture, and from the Tajima strain of Japanese Black (Kuroge Wagyu).
• The meat quality must be graded at least B – if not A – by the Japan Meat Grading Association, with a score of 4 or more on a scale up to 5.
• Beef Marbling Standards range from 1 to 12, the latter being the best, and Kobe beef must be at least 6 or higher.
• The cattle have to be slaughtered between the ages of 28 and 60 months, weighing 499.9kg or less.
“Last year, 6,000 heads of cattle were produced, out of which 80% was for the Japanese market; only 10 certified Kobe cattle were exported to Malaysia. Usually one animal gives about 400kg of meat, including the head, leg and other parts of the cow,” says Yoshida.
In recent years, the demand for Wagyu and Kobe Beef has surged rapidly since 2020. As overseas demand increases, the incidence of brand counterfeiting and compliance violations have also risen.
To investigate these issues, S Foods Inc appointed Yoshida as a commissioner, the official inspector of Kobe Beef for this region, in collaboration with the Kobe Beef distribution council.
He has over 15 years of experience in South-East Asia, particularly the Asean market.
S Foods Inc was founded in Hyogo prefecture (Kobe city is the prefectural capital) over 60 years ago. It is currently the world’s No.1 in the Japanese beef industry, including Wagyu, crossbred cattle, and domestic beef. S Foods Singapore is the largest purveyor and key supplier of Japanese Wagyu, Hokkaido Pork and Kobe Beef in Singapore.
“Just like how you have your luxury bags and cars, Kobe Beef is like the Rolls Royce of the beef industry.
“One of the biggest challenges is how to stamp out the fakes.
“For example, in the United States, you can find many restaurants claiming to offer Kobe Beef, but in fact, there are only eight certified establishments. The US is trying to have its own ‘Wagyu’ and it is Japan’s biggest rival. It can cost as much as US$600 for Kobe Beef.
“If you come across any restaurant where the bronze plaque indicating genuine Kobe Beef is missing, or if the price seems unusually low, you can report to me and I will investigate. If it’s confirmed fake, legal action will be taken,” says Yoshida.
Certified real
In Malaysia, Maria’s SteakCafe is the only steakhouse to receive the prestigious recognition by the Kobe Beef distribution and promotion council.
The council was established to clearly define Kobe Beef and issue certificates to authenticate beef that met this definition. As a certified restaurant, the Bronze Cattle Statue − the official plaque and certificate − is displayed in Maria’s flagship outlets at KLCC Kuala Lumpur and 1Powerhouse in Petaling Jaya.
Tan says receiving the certification was an honour. — GLENN GUAN/The Star“I’ve heard of the prestige of Kobe Beef since I was young and had the privilege of tasting it a few times. I remembered it to be one of the best beef in the world and wanted to bring this special experience to Maria’s diners,” says Maria’s SteakCafe chief executive officer Angeline Tan.
“The marbling gives you a melt-in-the-mouth feeling and the burst of flavours gives an intense aftertaste of beef without being too greasy, or what Malaysians term jelak (sick of eating).
“Malaysians are a well-travelled group of people and if they have been to Japan before, they would know the famous Kobe Beef plaque displayed at the door. But they probably didn’t know where to get an authentic one in Malaysia.
“On our part, we try to provide brochures with information about Kobe Beef for interested diners.
“Receiving this certification is an honour as it proves our seriousness in this beef industry,” says Tan.
“Many people love Kobe Beef but it’s a very special indulgence, maybe once a year,” says Yoshida.
“We’re here to help make that possible,” he adds.
Yoshida, 58, hails from Hakodate city in Hokkaido, historically known as Japan’s first international trade port, along with Yokohama and Nagasaki.
Seeing how the main industry in Hakodate is fishery, his family has a business producing processed cuttlefish, salmon and herring.
“This meant having to get up very early every morning, and I didn’t like that! Since I didn’t want to join the family business, I took up engineering instead,” he says.
Yoshida joined Sanyo as an engineer working on semi-conductor designs and was sent to Singapore in 1990 to beef up the office there. In 2009, he joined S Foods and was later given the additional role of official inspector for Kobe Beef in 2021, based on his extensive knowledge of Wagyu and market intelligence.
“My passion for teaching people about Kobe Beef stems from the uniqueness and artistry behind this prestigious meat.
“It isn’t just another cut of meat. It’s the result of centuries-old tradition, meticulous care and a deep respect for Japanese food culture. It excites me to share the story behind each bite.
“When someone begins to understand the heritage behind the meat, it makes their experience more meaningful and deepens their connection to food culture as a whole,” he notes.
The best way to savour Kobe Beef, Yoshida recommends, is to have it as a steak with only premium salt and pepper as condiments.
When he’s not waxing lyrical about Kobe Beef, Yoshida says he’s quite adventurous with food.
“I love local food like wantan mee and roast duck. There’s something very comforting about these foods, and I always find myself coming back to it,” he says.
