Bonnin with some of his specialities. — Photos: CHING YEE SING
With a rich culinary background that spans continents and prestigious kitchens, Gabriel Bonnin from Mallorca, Spain, has called Malaysia home for the past six years. The enterprising chef’s journey is as exciting as the Spanish dishes he serves at Verbena Kuala Lumpur.
Bonnin’s earliest memory of his culinary interest was as a child making pizza with his grandmother in the kitchen. Recalling his grandparents who lived in the countryside running a family supermarket business, Bonnin’s father had great success expanding the business.
“He was hoping I’d take over the business reins, but I was more interested in food and cooking. Taking to heart his sage advice ‘to wake up and be happy with what you do’, I pursued a culinary education in Palma, Mallorca.”
Art pieces from ATR Gallery on display at Verbena are for sale.
Upon graduation, a 20-year-old Bonnin set his sights on Madrid and worked as junior sous chef with two-Michelin-star chef Sergi Arola. Despite the long and gruelling hours, Bonnin endured the tough life and gained invaluable experience during his two-year stint.The now 41-year-old has also worked at Le Cabrera Casa de America, by.kono and Restaurante Cien Llaves in Madrid before venturing to Brazil for a short spell.
“In 2018, I headed to Singapore when my friend offered me the opportunity to work there. Despite my initial concerns about my own English proficiency, he assured me it was more than adequate,” he says.
A taste for Asia
Repaying his friend’s faith in him, Bonnin showcased his culinary prowess at Tapas Club Orchard Central and VivoCity. When the Tapas Club opened at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, Bonnin became the head chef and restaurant manager.
“My intention was to stay for just three months in Malaysia, but obviously, I ended up staying far longer than anticipated!”
Moving on from Tapas Club after two years, Bonnin became the culinary instructor at Academy of Pastry & Culinary Arts. Besides teaching classes on-site, he also created online videos to share his knowledge.
The dining room proffers an eclectic charm.
“I gave up that role when my patience began to diminish after three years,” he says with a laugh.
Striking out on his own, Bonnin began cooking for groups of friends in Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur. His convivial cooking and dining parties soon gained popularity among those in the know. During the Covid-19 pandemic, he live-streamed those sessions on Instagram, garnering him an even bigger following.
Encouraged by the success, Bonnin’s friend proposed turning the private dining gig into a permanent business post-pandemic and so, Verbena Dining Club was born. The business flourished further after he partnered with two French entrepreneurs.
“With their support, I could focus solely on cooking. We moved Verbena into this spacious bungalow in Bukit Damansara (Kuala Lumpur) so that our guests could have greater exclusivity and privacy. There were times when I catered to dining parties of up to 50 persons, five nights a week!”
Not one to rest on his laurels, Bonnin also manages the upmarket food-and-beverage outpost, Artisan’s Playground by Cookhouse on Jalan Ipoh.
“I run a paella and pasta bar there. It’s a favourite haunt with local families around that vicinity and ideal as a special event venue,” he says.
Bonnin chose to name his private dining club Verbena as it reminds him of the summer festival back in Spain.
The cozy bar area at Verbena.
“Each town has its own verbena during the summer months; a lively gathering of family and friends with plenty of food and drinks. I wanted to replicate that concept, evoking the same sense of fun and warm welcome here.”
Although he eschews the term “fusion”, the intrepid chef has no qualms combining his Spanish culinary heritage with the best local produce. Committed to learning and discovering new techniques, Bonnin likes enhancing his Spanish specialities with local ingredients such as bunga kantan (torch ginger flower), sweet potato leaves and okra. His signature octopus and foie gras dishes have become customers’ favourites, as is his paella.
Feels like home
Personally, Bonnin enjoys cooking monkfish or turbot the most.
“I’d baked it with Mediterranean herbs such as thyme and rosemary, garlic and olive oil. Then I’d serve the fish alongside fried potatoes and peppers,” he shares.
When it comes to accommodating his guests’ requests, Bonnin says he’s flexible and willing to cook whatever his guest desires.
“Once, I even added chorizo to paella even though in Spain, we’d never do that. Paella is always made with seafood and chicken, but if the guests want chorizo in their paella, then I’ll make it happen,” he quips.
He admits that he used to be a stickler in the kitchen, but having learned valuable lessons from his past leadership mistakes, Bonnin now remains humble in the face of success. Dwelling on a pivotal moment in the past when four staff members threatened to resign collectively due to his arrogant and harsh management style, Bonnin is well aware that a chef is nobody without a team.
“That particular incident was a harsh wake-up call for me and forced me to change my leadership style completely. Now, teamwork is my top priority.”
Bonnin chooses to remain in Malaysia because he feels right at home here.
“The Spanish attitude towards life is similar to Malaysian. Our people are friendly, welcoming and laid-back, much like the many Malaysians I have encountered. I also love local dishes such as Sarawak laksa, char kway teow, nasi lemak, roti canai and bak kut teh. However, I can’t stand durian, chicken feet and raisins!” says Bonnin.
He finds time to return to his homeland once a year to catch up with family and friends.
“I miss my mother’s Spanish omelette. It’s the first thing I always ask for once I set foot back home. I’ve tried to replicate the dish endless times, but it never tastes quite the same as the way my mother makes it.”
Bonnin’s journey from Mallorca to Malaysia is a reflection of the chef’s dedication, adaptability and passion for culinary excellence. By bringing a taste of Spain to Malaysia through his Verbena Dining Club, he continues to enrich our local food scene with his inimitable flair.
