In this 1970s photograph, twin sisters Audra and Alice Fernandez play in a fishing boat at Praya Lane in Melaka, once a lively Kristang fishing community, with multiracial neighbours adding to its colourful past. Photo: Fernandez Family Collection
In Melaka, where history lingers in narrow lanes and ancient buildings, the Praya Lane neighbourhood stands as a reminder of the once-vibrant Portuguese Eurasian, or Kristang, community.
This area, though quieter today, holds a rich tapestry of memories that its former residents are determined to keep alive.
Martin Theseira, a former resident of Praya Lane, spent his childhood in this close-knit neighbourhood.
He recalls the warmth and camaraderie that defined his formative years.
“Growing up in Praya Lane was more than just about location; it was about community,” he reflects.
“People knew each other well, and despite our different backgrounds, we all came together, especially during times of need. We were a very multi-ethnic, diverse community.”
Theseira, now the president of the Melaka Portuguese Eurasian Heritage Arts and Cultural Society (MPEHACS), reminisces about the spirit of cooperation that was deeply ingrained in the community. He vividly remembers 1975, when people from all walks of life – Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Eurasian Catholics – came together to build a Wall of Friendship at the Church of the Assumption to protect the land surrounding the church from coastal erosion.
Clement Pereira (on a friend’s shoulders) and childhood pals enjoy a Praya Lane seaside dip in the 1950s. Photo: Helen and Joyce Pereira
“The community spirit was very strong then,” he says.
“But that spirit has changed in many ways because of the environment we live in – nowadays people are more committed to their work and their own family life. We have less time for voluntary community service, or simply gathering together for festivities. But I believe this spirit can still be revived.”
In an effort to capture what made Praya Lane special and to share these stories with a younger generation, the Melaka creative cultural hub The Bendahari and the University of Nottingham Malaysia are collaborating with Theseira and MPEHACS to present a community-driven exhibition titled Stories Of Praya Lane. UITM Creative Arts students and an NUS Architectural Conservation MA student also lent support.
Scheduled for Sept 10-16, the exhibition, timed to coincide with Malaysia Day, has been nine months in the planning.
It will take place at Melaka venues such as The Bendahari, Lot 147-149, Jalan Bendahara (for the school programme) and two old houses - Praya Lane No. 1 and No. 6 - will serve as the pop-up gallery spaces.
The exhibition, supported by HSBC Malaysia, features a mix of free admission and ticketed (workshop) events.
A melting pot
The exhibition will highlight not only the broader history of the neighborhood but also the personal stories of its unsung heroes – shopkeepers, fishmongers, and food vendors who played integral roles in the community. Theseira notes the importance of remembering these everyday individuals who gave Praya Lane its soul.
“The satay man, the thosai and mee tok tok man. Many of them were not of Portuguese descent but could speak Kristang (language) fluently! Praya Lane was more than just a place; it was a community where traditions were born and lives were shaped,” says Theseira.
The project has also brought together a team of passionate contributors who share their own narrative and voice to the exhibition.
These include Dutchman Frits Van Walsem of nature-based outfit Mataburung, French historian Serge Jardin, Leo Khang Meng and Natassa Sta Maria.
Rita Theseira (later Sister Lucy), far left, seen in a family photo taken in Praya Lane in 1955. Photo: Sister Lucy Collection
They will be involved in the Stories Of Praya Lane programme on Sept 14-16, including the “Kampung Treasures Self Discovery Trail”, workshops and public talks.
Natassa, daughter of the late community leader Bernard Sta Maria, grew up on Praya Lane and lived in the neighborhood from the age of nine until she left Melaka at 18. She recalls a strong sense of identity and belonging as a descendant of the Melaka Portuguese among the multi-racial communities of Malaysia.
“My father was born and raised inside the kampong at 112 Lorong Bandar Hilir,” says Natassa.
“Although the houses in that area did not contain ‘Lorong Praya’ in their address, the residents were considered part of the wider Praya Lane community. Growing up here, I always had the sense of being special and unique,” she shares.
Role of oral histories
However, Natassa was struck by how much the community had changed when she began working on the Stories Of Praya Lane project. Many families had moved away, and a significant portion of the neighbourhood, once known as Kampung Tengah, had been purchased by commercial entities.
“I really feel that the lives and times of Praya Lane people should be properly documented, so that it won’t be lost on generations to come,” she says.
“What made Praya Lane so special was that it was once an organic community not just comprised of the Melaka Portuguese but also mixed with Chinese and Indian neighbours.”
Supporting the exhibition’s narrative are independent researchers Dennis Ong and Sabine Ferrao, who have spent the last four months gathering oral histories from over 35 individuals who lived or still live in Praya Lane.
Ong, a 30-year-old with strong ties to Melaka, was fascinated by how the Bahasa Malaysia language absorbed many Portuguese words, such as kereta (from carreta, car) and sekolah (from escola, school).
“I sometimes joke that you are already speaking Portuguese or Kristang without even knowing it!” he says.
Ong adds that the narratives that they have collected for the exhibition offer a glimpse into the daily lives, traditions and communal interactions of the community, providing a deeper understanding of its cultural identity – an aspect that official histories might not fully capture.
“Melaka is a city built on hybridity and cultural intermingling, and the Portuguese Eurasians are a key part of that tapestry. The stories featured in this project enrich what has already been told, adding depth and layers to the narrative. As more documentation and storytelling continue, the history will become even more complex and nuanced.”
Ferrao, whose grandmother hailed from Melaka, discovered a surprising personal connection during the project. While documenting oral histories, she found out that she was related to one of the aunties interviewed, a revelation that linked her own family roots to the neighbourhood.
“This was indeed a big find for me as I had been searching for my great-grandmother’s roots in Melaka, and now I know she was a girl from Praya Lane!” she shares.
Theseira (right, in T-shirt) is pictured with two friends draining dirty water from a freshly dug well at his old Praya Lane home in 2002. Photo: The Star/Filepic
As the exhibition prepares to open in September, the organisers are hopeful that this revival of memories will inspire others to document and cherish their own cultural histories.
“Ultimately, we hope Stories Of Praya Lane will spark interest in safeguarding this cultural legacy for future generations,” says Ong.
“The truth is, this is a race against time – once a generation passes, the opportunity to collect first-hand accounts and voices on certain subjects is lost forever. This urgency has driven us to see this project through to completion, motivated by how deeply these stories are connected to defining us as Malaysians.”
Stories Of Praya Lane promises to be a meaningful experience not only for former residents of the beloved neighbourhood but also for history buffs, students, researchers and visitors who wish to learn more about the Portuguese Eurasian culture of Melaka.
It is a testament to the power of community-driven initiatives in preserving and celebrating cultural heritage.
More info on how to share your own story about living on Praya Lane, or to learn more about the exhibition here.
