In October, KL City Opera reimagined La Bohème with a '1960s Malaya' setting at KLPac, showcasing Jane Soong in kebaya elegance as Musetta and Joseph Ng as Alcindoro. Photo: Goh Bong Hiang
The arts and theatre scene in Malaysia is celebrating alongside the fashion and heritage communities over the Unesco recognition of the kebaya, a garment cherished for its cultural significance.
The kebaya has been added to Unesco's Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, following a joint nomination by Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore, and Thailand, the Ministry of Tourism, Arts, and Culture (MOTAC) revealed on Dec 4.
The official announcement was made at the 19th Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Asuncion, Paraguay, running until Dec 7.
"Kebaya: Knowledge, Skills, Traditions, and Practices" was recognised on Unesco's Representative List through a joint nomination by the five South-East Asian countries.
In Malaysia, the kebaya has long been a symbol of unity, appearing in diverse performances that reflect the nation's multicultural identity. Its universal appeal, embraced by all races and generations, resonates deeply with the inclusive values of the arts.
The theatre community is delighted by the attention given to this intricate traditional dress, which never fails to grace the stage with its elegance and deep cultural heritage.
Setting the stage
In October this year, KL City Opera reimagined Puccini’s La Boheme, relocating the Italian classic from 19th-century Paris to 1960s Malaya. The kebaya took centre stage in this ambitious production.
“This (Unesco) recognition inspires fresh creative expressions, keeping the kebaya alive as a vibrant part of Malaysia’s cultural and artistic story," said Danny Chen, KL City Opera executive producer.
The kebaya's versatility was a perfect match for this Puccini classic, offering the theatre company a chance to showcase its cultural richness on an international stage.
On stage, KL City Opera’s La Boheme – one of the standout theatre productions of the year in KL – transported audiences back to the golden age of cinema in Malaya.
"It was a period in our country, where the film industry blossomed and young artistes emerged helping to shape our cultural identity. We knew right away that our traditional costumes, especially the kebaya, would play a big part in the show," said Chen.
"The audience enjoyed how the Bohemian characters were inspired by P. Ramlee, Saloma and Bujang Lapok. Now, they are asking for more adaptation of operas to a local setting," he added.
La Boheme was also the first full scale KL City Opera production to feature local traditional costumes, where it collaborated with local veteran fashion designer Dominique Devorsine.
Wee and her co-stars in 'The Best Nyonya: A Musical' by Krate Creative Space theatre company, which was most staged at Panggung Bangsawan Melaka last month. Photo: Chew Way Sern
Wee Shyre May, a theatre practitioner based in Melaka, runs the Krate Creative Space theatre company, which specialises in staging immersive and interactive shows centred around Baba Nyonya culture.
As someone who strives to tell stories of the Peranakan culture, Wee said that the addition of the kebaya to the list means that they can proudly say that what they are wearing is not a mere "costume", but a proud symbol of their heritage.
“The kebaya is a staple for all our Peranakan performances, so we work very hard to make sure it is accurate with the timeline of the story. Over the past few years, we have received many compliments for the kebayas we wear in our shows," said Wee.
“We also noticed a surge in admiration and interest in the ownership of these kebayas, especially for the younger generation who now are starting to appreciate and reconnect to the culture and the stories behind it.
"This news continues to inspire me to do more projects that enable me to share the beauty of our heritage and culture, especially the kebaya,” she added.
Painting the beauty
For artist Ika Sharom, the kebaya is not only frequently featured in her artwork, but is also an integral part of her identity.
Ika Sharom's ‘Ringan Sama Dijinjing, Berat Sama Dipikul’ (acrylic on canvas, 2024). Photo: Ika Sharom
Her paintings and prints have captivated both art collectors and the wider public.
“When I was growing up, the kebaya was considered ‘too traditional’ – something only for the older folk. But I always felt that the kebaya looks beautiful and elegant on every woman, no matter the age. It exudes not only a classic, feminine beauty, but also confidence and strength.
“That’s why I always paint women wearing the kebaya in my artworks – it represents me, my culture, and my country. I hope to encourage newer generations to appreciate and embrace our culture and heritage, and to never forget our roots,” said Ika.
Her vibrant hues, celebrating the timeless beauty of women in kebaya, have illuminated social media and gallery exhibitions across Kuala Lumpur.
Ronnie Mohamad, who has championed the kebaya in his work since late 2020, welcomes its Unesco recognition.
However, he emphasises the importance of acknowledging its diversity and sharing its rich heritage, especially given the five-country submission.
A painting from Ronnie's 'Gossip' series (charcoal and acrylic on linen, 2021). Photo: Ronnie Mohamad
"In my ongoing Gossip series, I’ve intentionally featured local kebaya – both Malay and (Melaka) Nyonya – in the paintings.
"This commitment to detail required extensive research to better understand the intricate designs and motifs of the kebaya," said Ronnie, who started the series to celebrate the beauty of the kebaya while reflecting on society's shift from face-to-face conversations to interactions dominated by social media.
"This series balances playfulness with reflection, offering a glimpse into the evolving dynamics of Malay society. Depicting festive Hari Raya scenes, it showcases women dressed in their finest, sharing family moments ... with the traditional kebaya taking the spotlight," he added.
The kebaya invasion
Community arts group Locco, which organises gatherings such as Keretapi Sarong and Lenggang Kebaya, has made it its mission to celebrate and preserve Malaysia’s rich heritage through its events.
The kebaya is a popular feature at these events, as participants of all ages proudly showcase designs from across the nation.
Locco co-founder Shamsul Bahrin Zainuzzaman shared that the Keretapi Sarong event, which celebrated its eighth edition on Malaysia Day (Sept 16) this year, has grown from a modest gathering of hundreds to attracting over 15,000 participants across cities like Kuala Lumpur, Johor, and even London, inspiring young people to reconnect with their roots through this vibrant cultural experience.
Keretapi Sarong participants gather at an MRT station before making their way to Dataran Merdeka for Malaysia Day celebrations in 2023. Photo: The Star/Faihan Ghani
This year’s Keretapi Sarong in KL featured hundreds of women elegantly clad in kebaya, making their mark not only across the capital but also at the Peszta Festival at the Zhongshan building.
“Keretapi Sarong, and our most recent event, Lenggang Kebaya, has indeed played a pivotal role in modernising the kebaya, making it more accessible and exciting for younger generations.
“By adding a playful twist to this traditional garment, they've not only revived interest, but also made the kebaya feel more relatable and wearable for daily life and special occasions alike,” concluded Shamsul.
