Food is in his blood – but he cooks for pleasure

Steamed chicken with lily mushroom and black fungus

Standing guard over a hot wok, Ethan Wong’s face is focused and determined. His little niece wanders in to regale him with a charming little sob story about her burst balloon, but even her childish prattling does little to break his concentration.

He stirs and stirs as though his very life depends upon it and only looks up to break into a small smile when the rice has reached the consistency he wants it to be.