An industry as overtly image-based as fashion design is always going to produce instantly recognisable stars. But as proven by Reiner Holzemer's intelligent, enjoyable if uncritical Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, in those cases, the figure of the designer can eclipse the design.
Think of Vivienne Westwood, and we think of her Elizabeth-I-safety-pinned-to-Sid-Vicious vibe; of Tom Ford and it's how his immaculate stubble often outguns his doubtless terrifyingly suave suit.
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