Vivienne Westwood remembered as 'revolutionary and rebellious fashion force'


By AGENCY

A 2002 file picture shows Vivienne Westwood acknowledging the audience after her show during the Spring/Summer 2003 ready-to-wear collections in Paris. Photo: AFP

British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood, who died at the age of 81 on Thursday (Dec 29), was known not only for her eye-catching pieces which are often credited with bringing punk and new wave fashion into the mainstream, but also as a vocal activist who campaigned for a number of issues, including nuclear disarmament and animal rights.

Westwood infiltrated the fashion scene with her eccentric and androgynous designs, ultimately establishing herself as the pioneer of the punk fashion movement.

Up until her death at the age of 81, the British designer continued to create eye-catching pieces, often using fashion as a weapon to defend her strongly-held social and political beliefs.

Westwood was born Vivienne Isabel Swire to parents Gordon and Dora Swire in Tintwistle, Derbyshire, in April 1941.

A 2004 file photo shows Vivienne Westwood during a photocall at a retrospective exhibition to celebrate her 30 years in the fashion industry. Photo: APA 2004 file photo shows Vivienne Westwood during a photocall at a retrospective exhibition to celebrate her 30 years in the fashion industry. Photo: APShe was the eldest of three children and after her family moved to London, Westwood enrolled on a jewellery making and silversmith course at the University of Westminster, then known as Harrow Art School, but abandoned the course after the first term.

In search of a new endeavour, Westwood trained as a primary school teacher while also working in a factory. During this time, she began to sell jewellery she had designed and created from a stall in Portobello Market.

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She married her first husband, Derek Westwood, in her early twenties and the couple had a son, Benjamin, before separating.

Westwood went on to meet Malcolm McLaren – who later became the manager of punk rock band the Sex Pistols – and the pair would design and create clothes together.

The Sex Pistols often wore clothing designed by Westwood and McLaren, and as the band gained attention, so did the designs.

The couple had a son, Joseph Corre, who later followed in the creative footsteps of his parents and co-founded luxury lingerie brand Agent Provocateur.

With her and McLaren's designs, Westwood made a name for herself as one of the pioneers of punk fashion and is often thought of as one of the designers responsible for bringing new wave fashion styles into the mainstream.

Westwood later opened a shop on London's Kings Road and after trialling a variety of names for the establishment she settled on SEX. The shop was just the beginning for Westwood, who went on to establish a global fashion brand and show her clothes on the runways of London and Paris.

Today, there are Vivienne Westwood stores in Britain, France, Italy, the US and Asia.

The designer's creations were eventually worn by the likes of Dita Von Teese, Naomi Campbell and even the fictional Carrie Bradshaw, who opted for a Vivienne Westwood wedding dress for her marriage to Mr Big in the 2008 Sex And The City film.

After cementing herself as one of the most recognisable faces in fashion, Westwood used her popularity to front a number of social and political initiatives, including campaigning for the release of WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange, who is fighting to avoid being sent to the US to face charges under the Espionage Act.

In July 2020, Westwood sounded a warning over an Assange "stitch-up" while dressed in canary yellow in a giant bird cage.

She led a colourful band of protesters chanting "Free Julian Assange" outside the Old Bailey criminal court in central London.

Suspended inside the cage, she said: "Don't extradite Assange – it's a stitch-up."

In 2020, Vivienne Westwood protested against the extradition of WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange to the US, outside the Old Bailey court, in London. Photo: APIn 2020, Vivienne Westwood protested against the extradition of WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange to the US, outside the Old Bailey court, in London. Photo: AP

Westwood was also responsible for designing the wedding dress of Stella Moris for her marriage to Assange at Belmarsh prison in March 2022. She also lent her support to the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament, animal rights charity Peta and vegetarianism.

She had been a supporter of the Green Party since 2015 and is reported to have donated thousands of pounds to the party.

Westwood became known for being as eccentric as some of her designs and pulled a number of eye-catching stuns during her lifetime.

When awarded an Order of the British Empire (OBE) in 1992, Westwood wore a perfectly tailored skirt suit with a grey matching hat. Although the outfit appeared demure, Westwood soon revealed she was not wearing any underwear after she began twirling around for photographers.

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She later told the Daily Mail: "I met a man who worked with the Queen and he said she was rather amused by it."

Following her return to Buckingham Palace in 2006, when she was made a dame, Westwood once again revealed she was without underwear.

However, on the second occasion she refrained from twirling and instead told the Daily Mail: "Don't ask. It's the same answer. I don't wear them with dresses."

Westwood attracted attention when she dressed up as former prime minister Margaret Thatcher for the cover of Tatler magazine and drove a white tank close to the home of former prime minister David Cameron as part of a protest against fracking.

Westwood later found a new romantic and creative partner in Austrian designer Andreas Kronthaler, whom she married in 1992. – dpa

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