Integration of the oscillator in the movement. photos: Rolex
The timeless allure of Rolex has captivated discerning enthusiasts since its inception in 1905.
Crafted with utmost dedication and a visionary spirit, Rolex has stood the test of time, embodying the very essence of sophistication and modernity.
Founder Hans Wilsdorf’s unwavering belief in the wristwatch as an emblem of the future has paved the way for an extraordinary legacy that continues to thrive today.
In an era when pocket watches reigned supreme, forever confined to a static position, Wilsdorf dared to dream bigger, envisioning a timepiece that could gracefully accompany its wearer through the dynamic rhythms of their increasingly active lives.
Each watch certified as a Superlative Chronometer comes with Rolex’s green seal.
The birth of the wristwatch marked a revolutionary turning point, challenging the conventions of its time and forever reshaping the world of horology.
At the dawn of the 20th century, wristwatches faced skepticism as imprecise, delicate and unwieldy adornments rather than reliable timekeeping instruments.
Undeterred, Wilsdorf harnessed his ingenuity to conquer three formidable obstacles, transforming wristwatches into indispensable companions for everyday endeavours.
First, he pursued the goal of crafting small movements as precise as the revered marine chronometers of the era, ensuring unrivalled accuracy.
Second, he pioneered the creation of robust and waterproof cases, shielding the delicate inner mechanisms from the elements: be it dust, moisture, splashes or even perspiration.
And third, he introduced an innovative self-winding system, granting wearers unparalleled convenience in their daily lives.
For Wilsdorf, the commitment to his craft went far beyond mere functionality, creating a brand that would elevate the wearer’s experience, promising performance and reliability that would endure for generations.
Every timepiece is a testament to this vision, meticulously crafted to surpass the highest standards of precision, durability and aesthetics.
Today, Rolex continues to uphold its revered heritage, fusing tradition with innovation to create exceptional watches that transcend time.
The Promise of An Exceptional Watch
Today, every Rolex watch is designed, produced and tested with constant attention to the tiniest of details, a “superlative” approach expressed through eight fundamental qualities that characterise every Rolex watch.
Precision, waterproofness, autonomy, robustness, simplicity, craftsmanship, comfort and durability – these major technical and aesthetic principles have always guided the work of the Rolex Manufacture.
They also promise the wearer the experience of an exceptional watch, whose features express the excellence of unique expertise.
Overcoming obstacles
In Rolex history, three challenges and three key dates stand out, the first being the challenge of precision in 1914.
When the Kew Observatory in England – the highest authority for chronometric precision at the time – awarded a Class “A” precision certificate to a Rolex wristwatch, the watchmaking world received the news with astonishment.
Winding system via a Perpetual rotor, presented by Rolex and patented in 1931 with the calibre that it equips, underneath.
This was a certification that involved extremely rigorous tests carried out over 45 days and had generally been reserved for large marine chronometers. For the first time, Rolex had proved that a wristwatch could rival the most precise of timepieces.
Next was the challenge of waterproofness in 1926, when Rolex unveiled the Oyster case, the hermetically sealed case which provided optimal protection for the movement via an ingenious patented system of a screw-down bezel, case back and winding crown.
Thanks to this, the watch could accompany its wearer throughout their day and in all their activities. If Hans Wilsdorf presented the Oyster as “the most important invention regarding watches of recent years”, it was down to the fact that its dust and waterproofness also helped maintain its chronometric precision over the long-term.
The challenge of self-winding came about in 1931, with Rolex registering a series of patent applications on a self-winding mechanism with a free rotor called “Perpetual”, which would later become the standard adopted by the entire watch industry.
With this system, the movement winds itself while the watch is being worn, as every movement of the wrist turns the rotor which drives a mechanism that winds the mainspring.
The device also has another advantage: regularly winding the mainspring ensures it always has enough energy to guarantee greater regularity and precision of the movement rate. By freeing the wearer from the constrictions of regular manual winding, the Perpetual rotor system also limits handling of the winding crown, thus contributing to the watch’s waterproofness.
Integrating all areas of expertise
A relentless desire to surpass boundaries is what has driven Rolex to establish itself as a brand of unrivalled distinction.
The choice of autonomy has shaped the identity of a brand at the crossroads of pure tradition and state-of-the-art technology. This commitment to excellence is brought to life at its four distinguished production sites, all nestled in the heart of Switzerland.
Every component of the movement is meticulously manufactured and assembled in Bienne, from the renowned Parachrom and Syloxi hairsprings to the precise Microstella nuts, escapements, oscillating weights, main plates, bridges and gear trains, every detail is crafted to perfection.
Gem-setting of a President bracelet in 18 ct yellow gold.
In Chene-Bourg, the artistry of gem-setting and enamelling coexists harmoniously with cutting edge techniques, creating an enchanting fusion of tradition and innovation. Here, Cerachrom ceramic components and exquisite dials are meticulously produced.
In Plan-les-Ouates, the properties of raw materials are put to the test. Here, 18 ct yellow, white and Everose gold are created, then, like Oystersteel, 950 platinum and RLX titanium, inspected, stamped, cut, drilled and transformed into middle cases, case backs, bezels and bracelet links, before finally being satin-finished or polished.
At the Acacias site, the culmination of artistry and precision takes place as the movements and cases are meticulously assembled. Here, master craftsmen bring together the heart and soul of each Rolex timepiece, infusing them with the unparalleled precision and reliability that define the brand.
A fifth site in Bulle, in the canton of Fribourg, Switzerland, is currently in the planning stages.
