V, considered one of the biggest talents of his generation, is the ideal choice to wear Panthere de Cartier jewellery. — Photos: Cartier
Face of the latest Panthere de Cartier campaign and the Maison’s newest ambassador, V (Kim Taehyung) of the iconic pop group BTS shares the same creative spirit and magnetic gaze as the brand’s legendary panther.
This kinship of character makes V, considered one of the biggest talents of his generation, the ideal choice to wear Panthere de Cartier jewellery creations.
The 27-year-old artiste recently topped global charts with his debut solo album Layover, dominating iTunes charts across the globe upon its Sept 8 release.
Its sales recorded a staggering 1.67 million copies on the day, an achievement that breaks the previous record for the highest release-day sales by a K-pop solo artist, set by his BTS colleagues Jimin and Suga.
Described as a free spirit, V’s magnetism has captivated an entire generation, both as a soloist and member of BTS, and his unique voice, sense of choreography and fashion have made him an icon.
His solo discography includes hits Stigma, Singularity and Inner Child, and he has also demonstrated his song writing abilities with 4 O’CLOCK, Scenery, Winter Bear and Blue & Grey.
In the campaign, V wears every piece in a fusional way, from a sculptural diamond ring, tete-a-tete panther bracelet and the Revelation d’une Panthere watch.
“When it came to embodying the magnetism and aura of the panther, our choice naturally fell on V. He has the look and strength of character. A personality whose choices are guided by creativity as a dancer, musician or art lover, with this style and this elegance that belong only to him,” said Cartier senior vice president and chief marketing officer D’Arnaud Carrez in a press release from the brand.
Wild and beautiful
A century on, the magic of the Cartier panther continues to captivate. In 1914, Cartier created its first panther-spot motif on a wristwatch, created in its black and white abstract onyx and diamond paving, inaugurating the use of flecking in jewellery and pioneering the contrasts of the future Art Deco style.
That same year, Louis Cartier ordered a “Lady with panther” from French illustrator and painter George Barbier, a watercolour initially used as an exhibition invitation, then used by the Maison for its advertising.
Apart from massive popularity as a part of BTS, V has achieved recent success with the release of his solo debut album.
A panther woman was taking shape, someone who stood out, claimed her independence and freedom, and marked her existence with a wild and beautiful femininity as only she could.
For Cartier, the first panther woman was Jeanne Toussaint, Louis Cartier’s close collaborator and muse, an inventive source of inspiration who approached the feline step by step, revealing its jewelled coat through an impression of spotted motifs before giving it body and life.
As Cartier’s high jewellery creative director in 1933, in the eyes of her major clients she enveloped herself in an indisputable aura of elegance by dictating the famous “Toussaint style”, setting the tone for others to follow.
A star-spangled dynasty was inaugurated by the Duchess of Windsor, for whom Cartier designed an onyx-spotted diamond panther on a 116.74-carat emerald cabochon in 1948, with Barbara Hutton, Princess Nina Aga Khan, Daisy Fellowes and Maria Felix continuing the legend.
These femmes fatales, feline women and major Cartier clients were constantly in the spotlight, their jewellery reflected their dazzling presence.
The production of a panther requires a three-dimensional vision, a sculptural and anatomical approach to the body that goes beyond the ornamental.
The 2014 Cartier panther is once more distinguished by its phenomenal and modern presence. Even on its own, its charm is arresting offering a range of surprises, loyal to its audacious and sophisticated jewellery aura.
With 56 pieces, it is a collection where the heroine reigns over with absolute feline essence. Magnificent as a “vanity” ring, like an X-ray of itself in a gold skeleton.
Creation of an icon
The production of a panther requires a three-dimensional vision, a sculptural and anatomical approach to the body that goes beyond the ornamental as each facet of the design determines the character of the panther.
Every detail is analysed and itemised, from the space between the nose and eyes and the curve that hems the eye, to the cheeks, ears, paws, back, sides and belly.
Polygon shapes, triangles or diamonds, its spots set the pace and follow the animal’s muscle frame, helping to create a sense of perspective – depending on whether they are in the foreground, or lying in the background, which gives the impression of a fleeing animal in movement, from front to back.
The animal is first carved from a block of green wax by an engraver as drawings, however perfect, only provide a flat vision of the object.
Using this wax sculpture, the jeweller can study the arrangement of the stones: the colours to use, the way they interplay, the angle of the stone. This wax from which the jeweller makes a metal mould can then be set with thousands of overlaid brilliant-cut diamonds that will give shape to the muscles, paws and head.
Doubling as a piece of jewellery, the Panthere de Cartier watch is one of the most distinctive Cartier designs.
Traditionally, the stones used range from sapphires to diamonds and onyx to evoke the coat, while emeralds or garnets are used for the eyes.
These spots are individually cut, each one taking up to an hour’s work, and each given a different shape to provide more movement and life to the animal.
Showing off its proud coat of brilliant-cut diamonds through various movements – pouncing, roaring, leaping, standing tall – the majestic interpretation of the spot or “fur” setting, is a master craft known only to Cartier.
An inimitable setting with honeycomb open-work, a sculpture paving and onyx decor or sapphire cabochons. The art of setting consists of giving the paving a voluminous, fluid appearance that emphasises and exalts without crushing every aspect of the animal. Thus, the metal is overshadowed while the movement remains.
To give the animal its final shape, the jeweller then assembles its various joints. These operations (sculpting, casting, stone setting, setting, mounting of the articulated animal) require more than one year’s work for some pieces.
V, considered one of the biggest talents of his generation, is the ideal choice to wear Panthere de Cartier jewellery. — Photos: Cartier
The production of a panther requires a three-dimensional vision, a sculptural and anatomical approach to the body that goes beyond the ornamental.
Traditionally, the stones used range from sapphires to diamonds and onyx to evoke the coat, while emeralds or garnets are used for the eyes.
Doubling as a piece of jewellery, the Panthere de Cartier watch is one of the most distinctive Cartier designs.
Apart from massive popularity as a part of BTS, V has achieved recent success with the release of his solo debut album.
